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Sparky
Oct 11, 2016 10:31:01 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 11, 2016 10:31:01 GMT -5
Grrrrrrrrrrr....
swapped out ignition wires. Still no start.
spark is white...at points, at plugs and if I hold the big coil wire to ground (seems small at the latter, too)- all white. Is that way too weak?
I burnt up my chi-com starter switch so my daughter and I swapped it out with anew piece of poo this morning. (Yes, schools still closed)
Is the spark too weak?
when I pull the plugs, they are wet. However, it seems like I really have to pull far on the throttle to see a squirt of fuel. I did put in a new plunger, but the results remained the same. I'm not positive, but this seems excessive from what I've done in the past. Maybe the float is too low? I checked fuel pump and it is working.
every now and then the engine hits like it will start, but it won't actually run. Maybe it's just burning the occasional squirt of starter fluid I put in to save on cranking power.
lastly, my flywheel has 3 lines on it. No letters that I can see. I'm assuming the middle line is TDC. Which line do I use to set the points to begin opening?
so, recap-
white spark too weak? which flywheel line? carb plunger acting up?
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Sparky
Oct 11, 2016 11:08:20 GMT -5
Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 11, 2016 11:08:20 GMT -5
Spark should be bright bluish-white. The carb may be flooding. If there is a puddle of fuel in the intake then t is flooding.
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athawk11
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Sparky
Oct 11, 2016 12:15:16 GMT -5
Post by athawk11 on Oct 11, 2016 12:15:16 GMT -5
Niblick, Just thinking out loud here. Did you change the timing at any point during this endeavor? If not, and it started before, then I wouldn't focus there at this point.
New spark plug cables...Are you certain you installed them in the correct position? Order 1-3-4-2...Counter-Clock-Wise at the distributor? If you can see the three lines through the peep hole, where is your distributor rotor pointing? 4 o'clock? 10 o'clock?
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Sparky
Oct 11, 2016 12:25:40 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 11, 2016 12:25:40 GMT -5
Flooding. Definitely.
i just went through one more round of static timing. Gave it a shot of starter fluid. Brief rumble. Then a few revolutions and another rumble. Then again. I then opened a port on the intake and it seemed a little wet. I pulled the throttle so I could look past the butterfly in throats and definitely saw fuel puddling.
next step pull the carb, then what? Clean it out, try again? Or report it to a higher echelon and send it to NC?
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Sparky
Oct 11, 2016 13:32:53 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 11, 2016 13:32:53 GMT -5
Hawkers...
I must've been typing at the same time you were.
Rotor is at 4 when marks on flywheel are in view. When I swapped out wires, I did them one at a time, so I could mess it up.
Previously (2 months ago?) I did a minor tune up to bring down the idle rpm's using a vacuum gauge and dwell/tach.
She was running great afterwards. Unfortunately I then abandoned her in the garage and was more interested in chasing golf balls.
What set me on the course of playing with the timing the other day was I felt it was turning over slower than usual, so I thought, perhaps, that I didn't retard it enough 2 months ago.
After changing the foot starter this morning, its spins pretty quickly. Now my focus is looking at potential flooding.
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Post by rickg on Oct 11, 2016 14:09:13 GMT -5
Mashnib, i'm assuming you are running a Carter WO. Before you pull it take off the top and inspect the needle valve and seat, the tiniest POS in there will cause a flood. Check that the float isn't a leaker, then check the ht, see that the tang that engages the needle is smooth as baby's butt, no burrs.
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Sparky
Oct 11, 2016 16:17:54 GMT -5
Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 11, 2016 16:17:54 GMT -5
What he said.
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Sparky
Oct 11, 2016 16:27:07 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 11, 2016 16:27:07 GMT -5
The more I think about this, the more I think it was flooding back when I messed with it.
yes Rick, it is a Carter.
i have some time in the AM before work to play a bit.
I'll look at the float and tang. Then dig deeper for crud clogging it.
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Sparky
Oct 12, 2016 7:16:44 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 12, 2016 7:16:44 GMT -5
Well, the float floats and the tang looks good. The float rests 3/8" above the gasket, so it should be set fine. Pulled out the needle and sprayed it down with carb cleaner.
i tried starting today and got it to rumble very briefly before dying. This happened a few times. However, the engine couldn't sustain life.
Afterwards I looked down the carb and again saw a puddle. I pulled #1 and it was really wet.
Anything else I should do before pulling the carb off and posting it to Scout?
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oilleaker1
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Posts: 2,022
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Sparky
Oct 12, 2016 8:05:39 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 12, 2016 8:05:39 GMT -5
If your timing is off a little, and it's flooded, it will not start. You should pull the plugs, carb clean them, and try and pull start the Jeep. Once it's running, you can adjust the timing by advancing it to the fastest idle and then retard it (at the distributor) 100 RPM's. Hook the tow strap so it doesn't bend your front bumper. If you can't do the pull thing, then you should try advancing and retarding the timing a little and again clean the plugs each time. On mine, I set the timing mark in the window at IGN or 5 degrees before TDC , loosen the dizzy, retard it, and then bring it back advance until you just see the points begin to crack open. That usually puts the timing within 2 degrees. If it ran before, I doubt your carb is all of a sudden shot. Once you wet the plugs with gas, you are all done until you dry them out. Oilly
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Sparky
Oct 12, 2016 9:10:15 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 12, 2016 9:10:15 GMT -5
Oilly, I'm at 5* BTC (or at least very close! It's hard to be precise in that window.) I really think it has to be close enough to at least fire. It it sounds so close to doing it, but then goes kaput. Side note edit...I'm running ethanol free 93 octane. Have been doing this for a few years. Does that mean the timing should be retarded more...like 7* or something? My other thought is, what if my gas went bad? I've got about 1/2 a tank, probably last filled it in May. However, like I said, t will fire, but then quit.
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Sparky
Oct 12, 2016 10:48:12 GMT -5
Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 12, 2016 10:48:12 GMT -5
Bo. The float should be 3/8” WITHOUT the gasket in place. Six-month old gas is not fresh. If you are buying 93 Octane strictly because it is the only ethanol-free-option, then okay. BUT, these old motors were engineered to run on 67 Octane. Reset the float and do what Oilly suggests.
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Sparky
Oct 12, 2016 11:02:26 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 12, 2016 11:02:26 GMT -5
Bo. The float should be 3/8” WITHOUT the gasket in place. Six-month old gas is not fresh. If you are buying 93 Octane strictly because it is the only ethanol-free-option, then okay. BUT, these old motors were engineered to run on 67 Octane. Reset the float and do what Oilly suggests. Scout...I re-watched your video 30 minutes ago and discovered my error regarding the gasket- probably about the same time you did! Ive just reset it. There is still a puddle of fuel in the intake, so I'll let it air for a bit longer. I might have to mop it up. I'm off to work so it will have to wait. I do the 93 octane because it's the only fuel I can find locally without ethanol. I've been doing it in both the jeep and the WC for awhile now...
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oilleaker1
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Posts: 2,022
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Sparky
Oct 12, 2016 13:41:48 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 12, 2016 13:41:48 GMT -5
Non alcohol 93 octane stores much better than regular non alcohol, and way better than anything alcohol. 6 months should not be a problem. A year isn't for me up here. 2 years, I've had it go bad. I use carburator cleaner and a wire brush on my gas fouled plugs to clean. Then dry them with a blast of air. Don't choke the engine if it has pooled gas in the intake. Are you sure which way the distributor rotor turns when your engine rotates clockwise looking at the front of the engine from the front bumper? Rotor pointing at the cylinder that is coming up on compression? Confirmed it with your thumb being pushed up out of the spark plug hole? No back fire out the exhaust or intake? Backfires mean it's firing with a open valve. If the engine fights against the starter while it's turning, you are too far advanced. The L134 is quite picky about starting if you aren't very close on timing. As soon as the plugs are wet, you are done. I'm not picking on you at all Moosey, just telling you like it is. I've beat myself bloody learning all this--------LOL. I confirm that the engine is coming up on # 1 on compression and the rotor is pointing there. Then noting the direction the rotor is turning, 1342 on the wires. Stop it at 5 degrees BTDC, rotate the dizzy retarding it, then rotate back until the points just barely crack open. With dry clean plugs, it should crack right off with a little fuel and ignition. Since you get shocked and see spark, it's working. You see too much gas, but that could simply mean you flooded it because the timing was off and it didn't start. Now go do it! Report back. Oilly
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Sparky
Oct 12, 2016 17:45:28 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 12, 2016 17:45:28 GMT -5
I'm not picking on you at all Moosey, just telling you like it is. I've beat myself bloody learning all this--------LOL. Now go do it! Report back. Oilly Lol...not picking on me? Where's the fun in that?? I just got home from work, but there isn't any time to play. I've got a goofy schedule tomorrow...pretty much working all day, but there are two decent sized coffee breaks that might provide an opportunity to test out today's float theory. thinking back, I think I adjusted the float a few months ago. Would make sense that the problem lays within the last part I monkied on. I swear I read somewhere to take the measurement with the gasket on. ...and then dummy me confirmed it again yesterday when I took it apart. What the heck was I looking at? Definitely not Scout's video. stand by for tomorrow's report...
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