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Post by Scoutpilot on Feb 11, 2020 14:39:12 GMT -5
Floor starter switch or dash mount?
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Post by towhook on Feb 12, 2020 11:38:22 GMT -5
the engine wasn't grounded properly. ran a temp ground to the battery.
when I prime the system, I should see oil when I look down in the dist shaft rght ? (were it's slotted ) got a few oil leaks. I wanta make sure this is rite before I go any further.
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Post by towhook on Feb 12, 2020 11:40:23 GMT -5
You immerse the oil pump in a can of oil and turn it to prime it. Then re-install . When you install it into the block, you also get the distributor correctly oriented and in static time for number one at TDC. Then take a hand pump oil can and back feed down the oil filter line into the engines side gallery. If no oil filter, then where the oil pressure gauge taps into the gallery. Pump the can until you have a hard time getting anymore in. It usually will back flow oil while you re-attach the hose or line. When you are sure you got it primed, pull the spark plugs out and spin the engine over with the starter until you see readable oil pressure on the oil pressure gauge. Now you are ready to turn on ignition and start the engine. If you static timed it right to 5 degrees BTDC and have fuel at the carb, add in choke it it should start immediately. You also should have immediate oil pressure. wow, that's an after noon project. I already did the oil pump and gaskets when u say immerse the pump in a can of oil, and turn to prime it. you mean turn by hand or by starter ? by hand I assume. as for the oil gauge I hope mine works.
static time ? oh boy. what's all that ? I guess I need a timing light ? btdc ? that in not top dead center,that's were I have the crank lined up with the timing tab on the timing cover. so this in going to be a learning curve.
thanks for all the new knowledge
I checked I just have a oil light I have the newer B with a single gauge cluster, and btdc is before top dead center
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Post by towhook on Feb 12, 2020 13:16:22 GMT -5
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Post by Scoutpilot on Feb 12, 2020 14:56:42 GMT -5
Yes. Pack it full. Your fuel pump left today.
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Post by towhook on Feb 13, 2020 11:35:04 GMT -5
Yes. Pack it full. Your fuel pump left today. great, I 'm trying to find a syringe to pack it in better then just by hand, back to google lol.. thanks for the update
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Post by towhook on Mar 8, 2020 13:21:34 GMT -5
You immerse the oil pump in a can of oil and turn it to prime it. Then re-install . When you install it into the block, you also get the distributor correctly oriented and in static time for number one at TDC. Then take a hand pump oil can and back feed down the oil filter line into the engines side gallery. If no oil filter, then where the oil pressure gauge taps into the gallery. Pump the can until you have a hard time getting anymore in. It usually will back flow oil while you re-attach the hose or line. When you are sure you got it primed, pull the spark plugs out and spin the engine over with the starter until you see readable oil pressure on the oil pressure gauge. Now you are ready to turn on ignition and start the engine. If you static timed it right to 5 degrees BTDC and have fuel at the carb, add in choke it it should start immediately. You also should have immediate oil pressure.
I packed the pump with vasoline, got a hand pump oil can, and used it to put in over a quart in to the side gallery were the oil psi sender goes, pulled the plugs. hit the key, starter turned for a min, no psi. repeated these steps. 4 times. pulled the valve cover no oil up top.
when I prime the pump, should it be in or out of the block?
what did I miss ?? I have 2 quarts of oil threw the side gallery, and cranked it 5 or 6 times. no psi, no oil on top. could there be some sort of other issue ?
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Mar 8, 2020 16:01:35 GMT -5
!. To immerse the pump in a can of oil? It has to be out of the block. 2. You probably won't see oil at the rocker shaft up top until it runs and comes up to full pressure. Did you have oil entering the oil filter canister (if you have one) when you cranked? 3. If you built the engine, are all the plugs (4 of them) and the front spray orifice for the timing gears in place? The plugs are located one at each end of the gallery, and two in the middle inside of the block near the mid main bearing. The middle plugs are one square head, and one flat screwdriver head. The rod swings over the top of the screwdriver headed plug. 4. Is the oil pump pickup tube where the two bolt mount and gasket are located, flat and sealed? if it's warped, it can suck air there. If possible, install a good known oil pressure gauge in the side gallery fitting where the original sender or tube exits so you can read something. I'm glad you pumped the oil can into the gallery. It feeds the rods and mains from there so you should be still in good shape. Just don't fire it until you have proved oil pressure.
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Post by oilleaker1 on Mar 8, 2020 16:05:31 GMT -5
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Post by oilleaker1 on Mar 8, 2020 16:31:07 GMT -5
More: that "screen" where the oil enters and is delivered up to the oil pump should have been taken apart and cleaned very well. Lots of junk from years of running gets trapped up in there out of sight . You would be amazed to see it all. If it gets loose, the grit and junk goes through the oil pump and is delivered to the soft rod and main bearings and bye bye engine. If it was me, I'd remove the oil float pickup screen where it bolts to the block, pry off the cover and clean it out nice and clear. Then make sure the mounting flange is nice and flat. You can use a flat file to make it so. Then re-install with a good gasket and permatex sealer, (not too much). Leave that screen open for oil to enter. Forget the vaseline and simply immerse the actual pump in a can of oil, turn it by hand, and expel the air and re-install.
Back to where we were--------you have to install the oil pump so that the distributor rotor is pointing at the number one wire at 5 degrees BTDC on number one cylinder. The distributor needs to be oriented so the little oil feed port is slightly turned up. Points should be just beginning to crack open.
I would go to the printed Willys Overland shop manual and read and see all of this before you mess with it. You need to identify all these things.
If the machine shop built your engine, go and talk with the guy about all these things. Even machine shops don't know everything about all engines. There is allot to learn about building a Jeep engine. My first one lost oil pressure at 105 miles. As I was told-------------"education is expensive".
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Post by towhook on Mar 10, 2020 10:02:36 GMT -5
long story be short, 3 teeth broke off the oil pump shaft gear. engine is apart and the teeth have been recovered. put too much vasoline in the pump ... the old gear is off the pump shaft. I have a used pump from a block in my garage, pushed that gear off the pump shaft. tried to tap the good oil gear down on to my totally cleaned up pump. didn't get far. seems to be very tite. any tips to gently get the new oil pump gear on to my shaft ( old pump will take days to clean, covered in crap ) was going to try a gentle filing ? 2 steps forward, 3 back wards I did make a bucket to prime the pump on the bench. once the gear is on
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Post by towhook on Mar 10, 2020 10:07:58 GMT -5
More: that "screen" where the oil enters and is delivered up to the oil pump should have been taken apart and cleaned very well. Lots of junk from years of running gets trapped up in there out of sight . You would be amazed to see it all. If it gets loose, the grit and junk goes through the oil pump and is delivered to the soft rod and main bearings and bye bye engine. If it was me, I'd remove the oil float pickup screen where it bolts to the block, pry off the cover and clean it out nice and clear. Then make sure the mounting flange is nice and flat. You can use a flat file to make it so. Then re-install with a good gasket and permatex sealer, (not too much). Leave that screen open for oil to enter. Forget the vaseline and simply immerse the actual pump in a can of oil, turn it by hand, and expel the air and re-install. Back to where we were--------you have to install the oil pump so that the distributor rotor is pointing at the number one wire at 5 degrees BTDC on number one cylinder. The distributor needs to be oriented so the little oil feed port is slightly turned up. Points should be just beginning to crack open. I would go to the printed Willys Overland shop manual and read and see all of this before you mess with it. You need to identify all these things. If the machine shop built your engine, go and talk with the guy about all these things. Even machine shops don't know everything about all engines. There is allot to learn about building a Jeep engine. My first one lost oil pressure at 105 miles. As I was told-------------"education is expensive". thanks for all the help. I pulled the dist cap when I hit the key to make oil pressure, and when I cap didn't turn I cryed. I knew what happened.
have to find tdc again, and put the bottom of the engine together, cam appears to be ok. I had a shop assb the block. no Vaseline will be used for the next round i'm too old to have health issues but this will be the root cause of it all
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Mar 10, 2020 13:28:52 GMT -5
Before you install the new pump with the replacement gear, find some bolts to go through the oil pump mounting holes while it's off the engine and tighten them as if you had installed it into the block. Make sure it turns by hand when tight. There has been some new Melling oil pumps that are locked up tight when tightened. They have sheared teeth off the cam due to this.
Your replacement gear may be hanging up where the old pin went through the shaft hole used to affix the gear to the shaft. If it has burrs or swelling etc. there it would stop the gear from tapping on. Make sure you use a roll pin that won't get loose.
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Post by towhook on Mar 10, 2020 13:29:11 GMT -5
a little engine oil helped the pump gear go on the shaft. oil pan is up, and bolts to spec. i'll stop at the store and get some brake cleaner be for work. clean it when I get home, and do the bottom gasket. then weds after noon I can prime it in a rubber maid bowl. weds should be able to set tdc again. and maybe time the oil pump ? and dist almost a step forward
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Post by towhook on Mar 13, 2020 10:11:31 GMT -5
!. To immerse the pump in a can of oil? It has to be out of the block. 2. You probably won't see oil at the rocker shaft up top until it runs and comes up to full pressure. Did you have oil entering the oil filter canister (if you have one) when you cranked? 3. If you built the engine, are all the plugs (4 of them) and the front spray orifice for the timing gears in place? The plugs are located one at each end of the gallery, and two in the middle inside of the block near the mid main bearing. The middle plugs are one square head, and one flat screwdriver head. The rod swings over the top of the screwdriver headed plug. 4. Is the oil pump pickup tube where the two bolt mount and gasket are located, flat and sealed? if it's warped, it can suck air there. If possible, install a good known oil pressure gauge in the side gallery fitting where the original sender or tube exits so you can read something. I'm glad you pumped the oil can into the gallery. It feeds the rods and mains from there so you should be still in good shape. Just don't fire it until you have proved oil pressure. the engine is back together, and the wife help me find tdc, so the timing may be 180 out ? (1) put pump in bucket of oil, ran it with a drill to remove air. pump back on. put 4 cans of oil though the hand pump oil can. were the psi gauge goes in ( reread oil gauge directions, and trimmed down the plastic hose to the length they said to ) cranked it with the key 4 -5 times. side cover is off, I can see the teeth turning on the oil pump. no oil up to, no read on the gauge. ( 2) I can hear the oil going in when I hand hand pump it with the side cover off, no oil comes in to the valve train area. didn't check the oil filter for oil. it's up on the pass side of the valve cover
I didn't assb the block, as for the plugs you speak of (#3) let me check my rebuilders book. these plugs are external or internal?? the spray nasal for the timing gears is there. any reason they would have taken the plugs out when they did assb it ? as for number (4) i'd say yes it should be fine, I did that my self
I just want it to run / have oil psi, I've had the block done for 4 years now engine has been in for 2 years. i'd trailer it to walcks 4wd if would work on it
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