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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 13, 2015 9:52:36 GMT -5
Some of the info I've been looking for and finding will not fit into the existing structure. It's a little more than carb related but it does all tie in.
What do you think Scout?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 13, 2015 10:11:33 GMT -5
A general tune-up section is one of the subjects I'm going to be working on here in the near future now that I'm caught up. Thanks for the push Brian. 
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 14, 2015 12:28:58 GMT -5
Sounds good. I'm finding some mis-information, and a lot of posts on the 2A page have broken links/pictures. I was having trouble getting my timing set correctly, and when it was set, would backfire under heavy throttle. Prior to this it idled a bit rough, but ran decently. One of your posts here gave some good things to check, and my igw 4177-1 seems pretty worn out (springs and bushings). Going to try the electronic version from Omix but again haven't seen much about it. Lots of guys like the Pertronix, but with my worn out distributor I figured I'd give the Omix unit a try. Here's some of what I've found now: www.thecj2apage.com/forums/l134-ignition-timing_topic13819.htmlwww.1943mb.com/c-5-G503_WWII_Jeep_Tune_Up.aspxAgain, it's not all correct - at least for mine. But I'm finding that to be like anything else I order for it!! |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 14, 2015 14:40:46 GMT -5
A word of advice. If the shaft bushing is worn nothing you put in there will work correctly. For a little more than the price of the Pertronix, you can have that distributor rebuilt to factory specs. Then and Now is the place to contact. I and many others have been satisfied with their service and pricing.
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 14, 2015 20:30:14 GMT -5
It's got a chunk missing out of the side of it too, so I had planned on replacing it. Any idea when Jeep used the IGW 4177-1? Bruce Mullen (cj2a page) picked me up a new body but it was for a 4008. My motor isn't original though (U stamp).
Thanks for the link. I'll see how I make out with the electronic one, it'll be here tomorrow. I did get the points set correctly and measured it with my Dwell meter though, but once you said about the shaft wear I and I saw the springs I figured I was done for the night.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 15, 2015 3:59:14 GMT -5
If your dizzy has the condenser mounted externally and the body looks small then yes, it would be a correct early model for the VEC, column shift CJ2A. The 4008 series replaced it and is probably the most widespread and used model for 4-134 motor.
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 15, 2015 9:55:44 GMT -5
Thanks for the info - mine's a 46 (12275) that was originally column shift, but was converted to floor shift. T90's date is 52. Bellhousing has a F stamp, so does the dipstick. Jeep stamp on the engine though, no ribs, was pre PCV too. There's definitely a story in there some where.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 15, 2015 11:06:50 GMT -5
I'm curious. Where can I see some pictures?
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 15, 2015 20:49:52 GMT -5
I'll take some
Replaced the dizzy with the Omix unit, and new plugs/wires since the old wires wouldn't fit correctly into the new cap. Installed, aligned the timing marks in the window, checked compression on #1, and installed 1,3,4,2 based where the rotor pointed and it started right up. Checked timing with light (I have to use #2, or #4 plug - to see the timing marks) and set it to 'IGN'
Runs pretty smoothly at idle (~650), but still backfires at the carb under quick throttle. If I goose it some it'll do it without it.
Carb I rebuilt a few months back, and it's adjusted with the screw 1.5 turns out. I set the metering rod using the dial indicator.
I've not checked the valve tapets, but it ran decently before I started this. Any suggestions?
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 15, 2015 21:23:17 GMT -5
Actually I'm wrong - I can see the timing marks using #1 but I cannot retard the timing enough with the plate installed the way it is on the Omix unit.
Retarding it as far as I could put me about the IO mark
Let me try and flip the bracket to see if it helps
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 15, 2015 23:00:58 GMT -5
Still backfires under throttle? Idles fine...
If I retard it too much it wont backfire, but it sounds like it sumbles.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 16, 2015 3:47:51 GMT -5
What does your vacuum gauge indicate in this new configuration?
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 16, 2015 15:12:48 GMT -5
I reset the valves this morning to .014" (it's what my head specs) using the X-9 method and a feeler gauge.
Rechecked compression - 118 lbs on all four.
I modified the new dizzy to accept the mounting bracket of the IGW, so I have full rotation. Setting it to 5* BTC with the light. Better, still backfires if you hit the throttle quickly.
Vacuum gauge is pulsating between 17 Hg - 22 Hg at idle. If I throttle up (slowly) it'll go steady then up, and back down to maybe 19-21 Hg at idle.
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 16, 2015 15:28:34 GMT -5
If I set the timing where the vacuum gauge stabilizes between 20-21 hg, it's better. I am advanced well beyond the timing marks in the window though. Still backfires a bit. It will not though if I choke it slightly, but at that point it will not idle.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 16, 2015 16:16:36 GMT -5
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