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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 20, 2015 3:47:56 GMT -5
Sorry. Your video doesn't function. It might be set to "Private" and not public. Give me a link and I'll go to it.
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 20, 2015 9:38:08 GMT -5
Sorry, it should work now. (I had embedding disabled under the 'advanced' section. This site auto embeds the videos from a link)
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 20, 2015 10:41:46 GMT -5
Now that I've seen the video, I am changing my diagnosis. One or more of the valves is sticking. When was the last time this motor was fully rebuilt?
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 20, 2015 22:32:29 GMT -5
Well, guess what I found. Apparently I'm slightly stupid when it comes to CCW, because for the past week I've put the plugs on CW!!! I did the Geiko method more times than I could count. But this version is what worked for me: www.cj-2a.com/techtips/timing/howto/l134-timing.pdfTook the carb off, and took the plugs out and cleaned/blew out the jets. I found some fuzz in the access hole of the brass throttle screw. Also my throttle plate was in backwards (C side towards the ports, and down towards the manifold - is the correct way). Some crap in the bowl too, so I decided to put the filter on and rebend the fuel line nicely. Corrected the plugs, hit the key and it started. Easily. I set the metering rod at the height you gave me, and it's very close - but I can close the throttle plate completely before the needle sits fully. Walcks is sending me the gauge tomorrow. Couldn't get the idle down to where it should be, however it vacuum gauge stabilized. A hint - plugs 1/4 were dry/white. plugs 2/3 were covered with fuel. Boy I feel dumb, but hey at least I figured it out before I rented a trailer AND took it to the shop. Tomorrow is another day  |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 21, 2015 3:44:40 GMT -5
Not everyone learns in the same way. The learning curve itself has some switchbacks every now and then. You've straightened the situation out and have had some significant progress. Feels good, doesn't it? It will get better.
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 23, 2015 18:10:16 GMT -5
Feels pretty good now that it's running GREAT!
The metering rod gauge is a definite MUST HAVE, although your measurement got me very close, I was a little lower on this carb. The timing markings on the flywheel are almost irrelevant unless you're just trying to get it close with the light. Once I finally got it set, they were not in the window with the light on.
I followed your timing method and it was again very close. Once I get my brass idle screw, and steel throttle screw set, it was still off a bit. So it took some fine tuning and a little more advance on the timing. This really made the vacuum gauge stabilize too.
Took it for a test drive and it's VERY peppy now. I'm sure my valves are carboned over a bit so I have some Sea-foam in the tank. Got home, checked the idle again and it was at 600.
Thanks again for all your help. When you do get around to making the other forum section I'll post some of my findings in there so maybe it can help someone else.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 23, 2015 19:20:13 GMT -5
That's the kind of report I like to read. Congratulations! 
I'm very close to finishing the "Tune-up" piece. It will be followed by a "Troubleshooting" piece.
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 24, 2015 9:53:48 GMT -5
Step one: Verify plugs installed counter clockwise The PDF I linked for the static timing was one of the better ones. There's a few variations of them. I'm not sure Sean is active any longer. If I recall it's been since 2013 since he's posted. So you may want to locally save them in case the host site goes offline at some point. I was surprised how throaty the engine is with the high flow filter on it. It's just temporary as I have to get a few more pieces to the oil bath setup, clean up and paint. Still flows better than the 10 CFM filter that was on it. |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 24, 2015 15:10:59 GMT -5
" So you may want to locally save them in case the host site goes offline at some point." I did that years ago.
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 24, 2015 17:37:32 GMT -5
Good deal.
Another quick question - I'm getting a slight stumble off idle. Am I better off adjusting the throttle position, or the brass idle screw? It's a really small zone, but makes me have to rev it up before shifting or it'll stall. More than normal...it's not often I'll stall them, but I did it 4-5 times today.
On a side note, I squealed the tires. Which made me grin a bit. It's definitely running better.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 24, 2015 19:22:12 GMT -5
If the stumble is occurring early in the the throttle pull you'll need to raise the metering rod ever so slightly. Perhaps 1/64' - 1/32"
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Post by brianjenkins on Jul 31, 2015 20:35:44 GMT -5
Took her out today for the furthest trip I've taken. Ran great after getting the carb dialed in. I even held 50-55 mph for 10+ minutes without going much past the 180* mark. Made all of the work I've done on the driveline worth it. She tracks very smooth too. I'd still like to get an overdrive at some point, but she's very happy being able to breathe now. Your keychain is done  |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Aug 1, 2015 3:46:24 GMT -5
Wonderful! Enjoy the rest of the Summer!
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