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Post by dluber on Jan 15, 2018 13:47:10 GMT -5
Hello all,
Now that I have my valves adjusted, timing set, vacuum good, and distributor working well, I'm going to tackle some starter issues. Here is my problem: in most cases, the starter engages fine. In some cases, the starter does not engage and I get a grinding noise. This grinding will continue unless I put the jeep in gear, rock it back and forth and then try and start it again. I have receipts from the previous owner and he purchased this autolite 6v starter rebuilt from Kaiserwillys but it sat with the rest of the project from 2012-2017. I also have a spare starter that has issues too. I plan on removing the starter first to examine the gear. Open to suggestions on test/ maintenance procedures.
Thanks,
Dave
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Post by brucew on Jan 15, 2018 16:14:10 GMT -5
I'm betting flywheel ring gear. As you've probably heard, these engines tend to stop at one of only two locations in the rotation, due to compression. Those two spots get all the wear from the starter drive engaging. When you move it in gear, you move the worn spot away from the drive.  B-dubya |
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gmcjr
KJRT
Posts: 932
First Name: Gary
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Post by gmcjr on Jan 15, 2018 16:20:21 GMT -5
I'm betting flywheel ring gear. As you've probably heard, these engines tend to stop at one of only two locations in the rotation, due to compression. Those two spots get all the wear from the starter drive engaging. When you move it in gear, you move the worn spot away from the drive.  B-dubya I agree with Bruce.... Unfortunately, it's not the answer anybody want's to hear. On my 8n Ford tractor I used to slightly drag the clutch on shut down so the starter would land at a random spot. Not the right solution, but it got me by until I was able to split the tractor. As Bruce said, four bangers will land at one of two spots, sometimes mostly one because one cylinder is stronger than others. |
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athawk11
Full Professor
Full Professor
Posts: 298
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Post by athawk11 on Jan 15, 2018 16:28:56 GMT -5
This is not a very fun repair either. Ring gears aren't too pricey, but if funds are tight, you could pull the ring gear and rotate it 45° or so. This kicks the can down the road a ways.
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Post by dluber on Jan 15, 2018 17:34:06 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice. I will pull the starter and check the ring gear.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2018 18:30:55 GMT -5
I'm betting flywheel ring gear. As you've probably heard, these engines tend to stop at one of only two locations in the rotation, due to compression. Those two spots get all the wear from the starter drive engaging. When you move it in gear, you move the worn spot away from the drive. B-dubya As Bruce said, four bangers will land at one of two spots, sometimes mostly one because one cylinder is stronger than others. More so with the "Flat Plane" crankshaft they are equipped with!  |
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Post by dluber on Jan 15, 2018 19:19:29 GMT -5
You were spot on... it's a bad flywheel ring gear. I made a quick video and uploaded it to youtube - view it in 1080p for detail -- Here are a couple of photos too.     |
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Post by dluber on Jan 15, 2018 19:53:38 GMT -5
Looks like I need a 97 tooth flywheel ring gear based on what I see on some of the normal sites I buy parts from. Any particular brand I should purchase or stay away from? Also, do you think a standard propane torch will get the ring gear hot enough to remove?
Thanks,
Dave
so far I found a Crown and Omix-Ada gear for part no: 635394
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2018 20:15:18 GMT -5
I'd either go to Ron Fitzpatrick, or Walcks, Pete Debella. Avoid the Chi-Com crap. Not sure your propane rig is up to the task, as the mass of the flywheel will absorb the heat faster than you are able to apply it, perhaps you and three friends with propane torches would do it, you must have a friend with a acetylene torch , if not any automotive machine shop would do the job, it takes maybe 15 min. To swap them. Lee |
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Post by dluber on Jan 15, 2018 20:44:01 GMT -5
Thanks and order made...
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Post by dluber on Jan 20, 2018 13:15:18 GMT -5
Hello all,
I'm making my way towards the getting the flywheel out. I've been dissembling the drive train, starter, linkage bits, cables, etc. I have the top two bolts out of the bell housing and a few more to take out. Having some lunch before I drop the transmission and transfer case. 2.5 hours into the job so far...
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Post by dluber on Jan 20, 2018 19:39:52 GMT -5
Worked on this project until about 4:30 mountain time. I was able to get to the flywheel, removed the old ring gear, installed the new ring gear and a new pilot bearing. Flywheel is installed, clutch and pressure plate, and a new throw out bearing. Ran out of steam trying to get the transmission and transfer case in by myself. I have some ideas on how to tackle it tomorrow.
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Post by dluber on Jan 21, 2018 10:17:17 GMT -5
Last night I was able to get the transmission / transfer case back onto the floor jack - it's a balancing act. I used the alignment tool that came with the clutch kit so that should bee good. I have the transmission raised up and the bell housing is about 4 inches from mating up with the engine block. I was struggling a bit last night by 9:30 pm so I left everything as is so I could do some research. I have aa question for the experts..
1. I have the cross member still attached to the transmission and that's my balance point on the jack - should the transmission be level or does the front need to be a bit higher?
I'm open to any other tips you may have. For background, I have the jeep on four jacks stands at their highest point and 3 ton jack holding up the transmission. I also have a small scissor jack providing some support to the back of the engine. The bell housing is currently as high as I can get it and it's limited now by the tub.
Thanks,
Dave
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2018 11:56:21 GMT -5
Is the transmission in gear ?, if so you can turn the e brake drum to alighn the splines on the trans input shaft with the splines in the clutch disc, more than likely that's your problem if you have the input shaft stabbed into the clutch.
Lee
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Post by dluber on Jan 21, 2018 13:38:21 GMT -5
Lee, Thanks and I've been able to move the input shaft using the transfer case brake drum. I'm now about 2.5 inches from getting it into mated up. I can no longer move the brake drum so I think I'm in the clutch disk. Not sure I'm in the pilot bearing yet. When I lift the transmission, I keep getting the cross stuck on the frame mounts and then I can't move forward. Almost there...
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B-dubya
