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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 27, 2014 17:26:11 GMT -5
Let's talk about the carbs, pumps and filters you have questions about. If I don't know the answer immediately, I will find it and put it up here. Thanks for joining.
Rick
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oilleaker1
Full Professor
Full Professor
Has Jeep Disease
Posts: 2,022
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Post by oilleaker1 on Dec 28, 2014 8:40:38 GMT -5
My Jeeps all have their original carburators. YF, YS, and WO. I've had all down to nothing, and have gone to the school of hard knocks, do it yourself, and learned much from our mentor Mr. Rick, the Scout Pilot. I find the WO the most user friendly. The YF has a accelerator pump set up, that hates any snarf, and has a little U shaped outer connecting rod that must be right on in it's bend or adjustment for the whole carburator to work. The YS military carbs (waterproof) have vacuum operated accelerator pumps and metering rods that will make you feel at their mercy. One thing I learned on them, is the two covers that install over the rubber diaphrams can be warped. Bubba tends to just keep tightening the screws until he strips them out. I hate this guy! I found that wet sanding them on a flat glass in solvent works wonders in stopping the leaks from them. The fuel line in both the M38 and M38A1 has many leak points for air to get in and stop the priming of the fuel pump. As a result, you have to crank longer with full choke to get them started. To aid in starting in cold weather, they would install a cold weather primer, that literally pumped raw gas into the intake manifold. Standard in '51 and then option only after that. This also can cause more leaks. That's the main reason they were dropped after '51. So, in short, I use "Rouge Methods" and Scout has the tools for the job. I'm sure glad we all have him backing us up when we get in trouble, and the willingness he shows to provide free advice. I commend you for that! Signed, Carb Leaker
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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 28, 2014 10:17:30 GMT -5
Sage advice and worthwhile information. I do appreciate the input. You sir, are welcome here anytime you wish to expound on the merits and drawbacks of these often cantankerous little devices that can give us so much pleasure and too many heartaches. I dub thee an Associate Professor. 
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2014 12:17:10 GMT -5
Wow!!! That oil leaker!! You have to give him an avitar!
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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 28, 2014 12:27:17 GMT -5
Around here a man chooses his own face.
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oilleaker1
Full Professor
Full Professor
Has Jeep Disease
Posts: 2,022
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Post by oilleaker1 on Dec 29, 2014 9:32:04 GMT -5
Well, I'm no professor, but I sure have some trail experience. A fellows wife was disgusted with the group one time and said: " all you guys do is drive, drive, drive, and fix, fix fix!"  That sums it up well I think. Oil |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 29, 2014 9:38:24 GMT -5
Can't drive if you don't fix. If you drive, you will eventually have to fix. Am I right? You won't feel left out here. Your trail experience will come in handy when someone needs advice.
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oilleaker1
Full Professor
Full Professor
Has Jeep Disease
Posts: 2,022
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Post by oilleaker1 on Dec 29, 2014 9:59:34 GMT -5
A trail tip: After you get your newly running Jeep pal out on the trails, it may decide to not idle. All new, what the heck!!!!  I finally found the culprit is almost always a vacuum leak at the carburator base. That fat gasket with the "V" and staples holding the thing together will help you leak. What I do now as standard procedure is make two thin paper gaskets that match the fat one, and install top and bottom without any sealant. This helps with the leak the staples can cause. I also now put thin star washers on the mounting studs to keep the nuts from vibrating loose. Regular thick lock washers are too thick. With all carburators, it's very bad to crank hard on the mounting flanges, or for that matter all screwed together parts. They do not need this and you'll ruin your carb. Scout's favorite inlet filter with the glass site bowl is another fine recommendation. I find that my WO Carbs are amazing little guys and work very well. Oil |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 29, 2014 10:03:48 GMT -5
Keep this stuff up and you'll make full professor, with tenure, in no time! 
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rudycon
KJRT
I'm not dead.
Posts: 75
First Name: Stephen
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Post by rudycon on Dec 30, 2014 9:57:50 GMT -5
Scoutpilot: Oh boy do I need help.
Rig is a CJ2a, re-powered with a Studebaker champ 6. (170 C.I. V.E. of 75%. Size "2" carb on a simple log manifold.)
Operating altitude is 8000-9000 feet. Stock carb?....well...the champ 6 had a lot of different carbs on it over the years. Right now it has a BBR-1 on it.
I can't find main metering jets for this carb. Anything easy to find that will screw in?
I have done the old fill and drill on a parts carb jet to lean it out for use at 8000+ feet, but we all know that a drilled jet doesn't flow the same as the real deal.
Is there any hope of getting my CJ2a to run "right" with a Carter BBR-1 at 8000+ feet or should I pull it off and work with something else?
Hey thanks Scout Pilot!
P.S. My Dad worked for International Havester when I was a kid. He used to bring home Scout technical drawings for me to color on.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 30, 2014 10:53:55 GMT -5
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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 30, 2014 12:27:32 GMT -5
HG. Is this what you were asking about?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2014 18:08:39 GMT -5
HG. Is this what you were asking about? Yes! I saw you had quite the nifty little set up in a photo is saw. Do tell.. |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 31, 2014 18:36:35 GMT -5
Since you ask so nicely. I can test as many as three carbs in a day. Each of those could be put on and removed up to three times. I got tired of trying to fish the cotter pins I was using from under the Jeep  or from the hot exhaust manifold. I have a few of these clips around and after a little tinkering with the basic design (grinding off 1/8" of the long leg) I inserted this little jewel and haven't had to go fishing or crawling (I confess. I cheated and used a magnet wand. But I still had to get down on my knees. ) again.
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gmcjr
KJRT
Posts: 932
First Name: Gary
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Post by gmcjr on Dec 31, 2014 21:06:02 GMT -5
Here's another one learned the hard way..
Always make sure the spring clip at the top of the Choke/ Fast Idle link is nicely secured, or else the link can fall off and proceed to wedge itself against the exhaust manifold and hold the throttle wide open..... At the worst possible time.... Wife and the inlaws where proud of me that day...
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That sums it up well I think. Oil
I finally found the culprit is almost always a vacuum leak at the carburator base. That fat gasket with the "V" and staples holding the thing together will help you leak. What I do now as standard procedure is make two thin paper gaskets that match the fat one, and install top and bottom without any sealant. This helps with the leak the staples can cause. I also now put thin star washers on the mounting studs to keep the nuts from vibrating loose. Regular thick lock washers are too thick. With all carburators, it's very bad to crank hard on the mounting flanges, or for that matter all screwed together parts. They do not need this and you'll ruin your carb. Scout's favorite inlet filter with the glass site bowl is another fine recommendation. I find that my WO Carbs are amazing little guys and work very well. Oil
or from the hot exhaust manifold. 