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Post by btinsc on Aug 4, 2018 21:38:59 GMT -5
I've never had a speedometer that lasted very long in a jeep. Since the early sixties all of my speedometers have gone kaput. I would like to try to get one going one last time. My new, to me, jeep had one that that looked pretty nice but I put a new cable on it and all it does is give wild fluctuations and produces a screaming sounds. Searching for a replacement I find a lot of speedo's that max out at 60 mph, mine max's at 70 mph. Which would be correct for the 3a? Thanks guys.
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Aug 5, 2018 5:57:41 GMT -5
King Seeley. 0-75. You need to lube the speedo. There is a oiling port on top of the threaded nipple on the back. Just under the top screw. Use a good clock oil or non detergent 20 weight. 3M electric motor oil also.
On AC type, there is no oil port so what I do is put the back nipple in a cup of oil with the glass face up.
The cable needs lube also. Once they get dry and start talking to you, disconnect the cable in a hurry. They will spin clear around and destroy the hair pin needle spring, or break off the needle.
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Post by m38mike on Aug 5, 2018 6:58:30 GMT -5
Oilly, what do you use to lube the cable? I've used motor oil in my cables. I pour a little bit into one end of the cable jacket then hold that end high and spin the cable inside. When I see oil coming out the low end I hook the cable up to the transfer case, and the speedometer. Usually good to go for years after that.
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athawk11
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Post by athawk11 on Aug 5, 2018 7:58:14 GMT -5
I've pulled the inner cable out of the outer, cleaned both pieces with brake cleaner, lubed both pieces with a spray type graphite lube, then reassembled. It's worked trouble free for 7 years so far.
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Aug 5, 2018 8:17:12 GMT -5
I think the graphite is the best, but motor oil has worked for me. You do have to re-lube from time to time and clean it all if it gets dry and crusty.
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Post by btinsc on Aug 5, 2018 8:25:58 GMT -5
I have a new metal clad cable. There is a collar attached to each end of the inner cable which prevents pulling the inner cable out. I will try hanging the cable and getting some lube in it.
I will pull the speedo and check it for an oil port. I do have some 20 weight electric motor oil.
As long as I don't over rev it would it hurt to test with a drill connected to the transfer case end? I think rotation is ccw.
Thanks for tips guys.
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Aug 5, 2018 12:25:03 GMT -5
Yep CCW. If you have a short piece of old cable , just use that to power up the speedo.
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Post by btinsc on Aug 5, 2018 13:28:44 GMT -5
Well I got it done. Pulled the cable and speedo off, couldn't pull the cable out but was able to hang the cable and oiled with turbine oil until it came out the end, let it drip dry. The speedo is a King Seeley, #40904-c-n, date stamp says June 13, 52. Found the oil port you mentioned, has a wick in it, filled it a couple of times, and added a drop or two to the drive end. Spun it by hand a few times, connected the cable to it, then connected a drill. Started slow then faster, seemed real good. Reinstalled everything, did a road test and it performed great.
Thanks for all the help and tips guys.
Now off to the next project - distributor. The jeep came with a distributor that has the vacuum advance, not connected. To my knowledge the distributor should be an IAD4008. So I will be searching for one of those. Anyone have a lead on one? I have seen one or two on eBay, following them.
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Post by rickg on Aug 5, 2018 13:37:53 GMT -5
There are Omix repops out there that I'd steer clear of and hold out for an autolite if possible.
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Post by btinsc on Aug 5, 2018 13:54:14 GMT -5
Thanks rickg I intend to do just that. My goal for this jeep is to get it back to original as good as I can. I just like the old stuff. I read somewhere that an Autolite IAD-4008 or IAD-4008T was the correct distributor. Anyone know what the T means?
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