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Post by btinsc on Jun 6, 2018 19:08:30 GMT -5
I guess I'm lucky that all the parts for the heat riser are free and not rusted up. I don't think it is installed correctly and I have found pictures of all the parts, but they don't tell me exactly how it should be installed.
Right now the counterweight is at the three o'clock position and the valve is in a horizontal position with a cold engine, closed ??, you push the c'weight down to open the valve. Seems you would want the valve to be open for cold engine start startup, then as the spring warms up it closes the valve. Right?? With the engine cold what position should the c'weight be??
One of the bushings ( the side that faces the firewall ) is missing. Big exhaust leak. I have a repair kit on the way. I've read about cutting the valve shaft to remove the valve. Then punching or pressing the bushing out. Can't find where anyone has installed the bushing with the valve shaft in place. Has anyone done this?? If so how did you do it? Align the bushing with the manifold hole and valve shaft and lightly tap it in with a plastic hammer??
The vehicle is a 1952 cj3a with the L head engine, I have more experience on the F head. So a lot of this is going to be a new learning curve. I'm excited. |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jun 7, 2018 5:12:50 GMT -5
The cold position should be with the lollipop pointing roughly to four o'clock and the valve is open. The tip of the bi-metal spring should be resting just above the short plate it contacts.
Watch this video.
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Post by btinsc on Jun 7, 2018 5:49:15 GMT -5
Thank you Rick for the info and video.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jun 7, 2018 5:51:09 GMT -5
Welcome.
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Jun 8, 2018 6:40:06 GMT -5
You can tweek that coiled spring to rest correctly on the small ledge plate. Make sure you have the small tin spacer in the shaft slot that has a hole in it for the through bolt or screw. Otherwise the weight can rotate on the shaft. You can test the assembly to see if the spring raises the arm by heating it with a propane torch. That coil can be installed wrong. Make sure the through bolt in the arm is tight, or it can fall off. I've lost one that way. I went to my other Jeeps and found them loose also.  |
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Post by btinsc on Jun 9, 2018 15:13:11 GMT -5
oil leaker 1 thanks for the input.
What do mean by tweaking the spring to rest correctly? As it is now the spring is fairly loaded when resting on its perch, installed in either position. How much tension should the spring have when its resting on the perch and the engine is cold?
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Jun 9, 2018 16:50:53 GMT -5
I've had some that when the flapper (heat riser internal plate) is all the way open, the spring does not touch or rest on top of the tin ledge. When heat from the exhaust affects the bi metal coil spring and it rotates, it should begin lifting the arm up or closing the flapper right away so the heat riser assembly sends all the hot gases out through the exhaust instead of warming the intake too much. You want it to warm and vaporize the fuel when cold, but not when it's hot. It will heat the carb up also making hot starts difficult. Lots going on in the go devil. More than most folks think. Anyway, you can rotate the spring until it begins to get tight a little at a time and then relax it. Watch to see if you "tweeked it" enough to get the end of the spring resting on the tin ledge or bolt on plate. I hope this makes sense to you. Oilly |
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Post by btinsc on Jun 13, 2018 13:29:25 GMT -5
Thanks Oilly
After reading your reply I "unsprung " the spring a little bit. This relaxed the tension on the spring while it is idle. Cranked her up and while warming up the spring started moving until the damper fully closed the exhaust bypass off.
The bushing facing the firewall is missing, I have a replacement. It is serrated and seems a bit large for the hole it is going into. But have you ever tried to install the bushing with the damper shaft already in place?
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Jun 13, 2018 17:10:02 GMT -5
I had a manifold with those bushings. You have to be careful when it's tapped in it doesn't get small and lock the heat riser shaft from turning. If it keeps coming out, you can center punch a few little stops at the outside edge of the hole, but be careful, cast iron manifolds get brittle with age. Oilly
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gmcjr
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Post by gmcjr on Jun 13, 2018 17:50:46 GMT -5
I had a manifold with those bushings. You have to be careful when it's tapped in it doesn't get small and lock the heat riser shaft from turning. If it keeps coming out, you can center punch a few little stops at the outside edge of the hole, but be careful, cast iron manifolds get brittle with age. Oilly I put some of those in back in Feb. I had to ream them out so the shaft would turn freely. Then the dang things popped out.....  |
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Post by btinsc on Jun 13, 2018 18:28:08 GMT -5
Yeah that's what I'm worrying about, locking it down. Punching the hole may help if I can get it in without binding the shaft. But I do have a new shaft if necessary. Gary what have you done to keep the bushing in place?
I want to let you guys know the time frame on my response may vary. I am doing our spring/summer job of campground hosting in the NC mountains for the National Forest Service. We do not have cell service here so we have to leave the campground and drive up to the AT to catch a signal. We do this every few days. So please do not be offended if I don't respond in a timely manner to post. Thanks - Bill
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gmcjr
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Post by gmcjr on Jun 13, 2018 18:34:19 GMT -5
Yeah that's what I'm worrying about, locking it down. Punching the hole may help if I can get it in without binding the shaft. But I do have a new shaft if necessary. Gary what have you done to keep the bushing in place? I want to let you guys know the time frame on my response may vary. I am doing our spring/summer job of campground hosting in the NC mountains for the National Forest Service. We do not have cell service here so we have to leave the campground and drive up to the AT to catch a signal. We do this every few days. So please do not be offended if I don't respond in a timely manner to post. Thanks - Bill No worries! We are a pretty laid back bunch around here. Those danm bushings popped out when I was loading the Jeep on the trailer to head out Colorado back in April... So it was a flying trip to oriellys for JB weld manifold epoxy... |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 29, 2020 6:19:14 GMT -5
If anyone is curious, here is a kit. It is missing the lock tab and screw for the lollipop.
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Jan 29, 2020 9:02:24 GMT -5
I don't see the tab or machine screw that installs the arm to the shaft?  ? not included? |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 29, 2020 10:28:09 GMT -5
You’re correct. They are missing from this kit.
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