squeaky belt

According to Lee, a pulley off of a generator will fit. I never did it, so I just take him on his word, Lee ain't never steered me wrong

My only concern is that the genny pulley is bigger, which would in turn slow the alternator down compared to engine rpms. When I had a one wire aternator, I had to rev the crap out of the engine to get it to "excite" and start charging even with the little bitty GM pulley. One of the reasons I got rid of it as soon as found a 12v genny. Is this a big deal, I dunno.... Ill be interested in the results of what you find, Split!!

Here is a shot of a GM 10SI with a Auto-Lite pulley fitted!.





   Now, as the Professor said, "Pulley Diamiter" can be an issue!  ...... Here's the deal  , it depends if you went Bubba Cheap Ass, or did it correctly, That being how you wired it. Bubba Cheap Ass would be the One Wire option! (1). Correctly would be the As Desighned three wire (3) correct way. Now Bubba claims one wire is all you need and the SOB from MN is full of shit!. 

   1) One wire scenario!..... Yes it works One wire, but the unit needs to reach around 1200-1500 RPM to "Excite", Excite means turn on and charge!.... Now, you have this condition with the narrow skinny pulley that came with the 10SI, you start old nelly bell up and tap the footfeed to "Excite" the alt. and the belt squeals like, big time!. OR, you installed the 10SI with the OE Auto-Lite pulley that's much larger in dia., now you need to rev the engine to redline to get it to Excite. 

   2) Three Wire scenario!..... You have wired the unit correctly!, now when you turn on your ignition switch, the 10SI "Excites", in this case pulley diameter is not as fussy, you can easily run the OE Auto-Lite pulley as engine RPM is not a factor on "Exciting" the unit. If you run the small as purchased pulley, in most cases you still get a squeal as there is not enough surface area on the belt to properly turn the Alt. or Fan under load.

   All that being said, you cannot always run the Auto-Lite pulley as it depends on how you mounted the 10SI, if you build the mount with the combo in place your bracket will have the correct offset, all is good!, if not you will need to move the bracket back.
  
   So after checking my pile of used 10SI alt's, I have no big single shiv pulleys to offer other than a stock Auto-Lite...... The Delco Alternator IMO is the class of the field in its simple build and the fact that it's "Cheap"... But it's also way overkill on our beloved Flatfender Jeep, unless your running a kick ass ghetto stereo with the amp, or an electric winch the stock generator be it 6V-12V-24V will never short you on what's required.

Lee

Yes, 2 ways to do it!. 

1) one wire  , run a wire from the terminal on the back to the ammeter, as yours is. As the alternator reaches 1200 rpm it excites itself.
2) 3 wire, on the side of the alternator case, there is a rubber plug, pop that out (if it has a plug). There will be 2 1/4" spade terminals in there and marked 1 and 2, cast into the case, #1 would be the terminal that excites the alt. So that would be ran to the ignition switch, but one must also install a diode in the line so it does not backfeed the ignition when it's turned off (there are other ways to address this). #2 can be hooked directly to the main terminal on the back, as #2 monitors the voltage in the system. 

Here re is a link, it's better than my description!... If your short on time, I'd run it as a one wire for now, do it right when you have more time, the Professor can most likely recommend a diode as he knows all that secret squirrel electric stuff!, LOL
www.hartin.com/alternator.htm

Diode:

These should work, install the stripped end toward alternator.

It shouldn't, if the internal regulator is good.

All the exciter circuit should do is magnetize the stator through the two small carbon brushes by the rear bearing as soon as the key is turned on, so the alternator will start to produce a charge as soon as it's turned fast enough to overcome battery voltage. 

The one-wire version (somehow, I'm not sure how they really work), has to be spun a certain number of rpms wayyyyy beyond regular charging speed to magnetize or "excite" the stator. Once the stator is excited, it will charge until the alternator slows down enough to quit charging all together.

For instance, on my 8n Ford, I installed a "one wire" 10si alternator. At initial startup, I had to manually goose the governor linkage past full governed throttle to get the damn thing to charge. (Not what I care to do on a cold engine.)Once goosed, it would charge at idle, until I let the clutch out too fast or did something that lugged the engine down for a split second, then I had to repeat the "governor goose".  PIA! It has been since wired for the exciter circuit. Old fashioned generators didn't have this problem because the mass of the pole shoes on the inside of the case held enough residual magnetism to "excite" the armature without any additional help. Generally speaking...Thats why a generator equipped vehicle can be pull started with a completely dead battery as long as it is pulled fast enough to make the generator charge. You can pull a alternator equipped vehicle 80 mph until you run out of gas, it will never start. Dad said he learned that lesson with their company trucks back in the early '70s. 

 

Hey Split, if your only fesable option is to buy the 50 pack for 7 dollars. Id keep some spares, but if you don't want the rest, I'll give you a few dollars for them. Hopefully, I'll see you in the Black Hills.

Just a FYI, before permanently wiring the diode, check it with your favorite multimeter. When ohming across it, you should see some resistance with the black lead on the end with the strip, but a helleva lot more resistance the other way around. I've learned the hard way about just going on faith.....