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Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 27, 2014 14:33:25 GMT -5
Welcome! This board is for questions about your Carter WO only. Please utilize the appropriate area for others.
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Post by liljoe on Jan 4, 2015 18:26:19 GMT -5
Hey Scoutpilot - nice new website. Hopefully this is the correct place to ask this question.
In regards to my WO on my 47 - I have a lean condition based on my review of your previous postings at the CJ2a site. Went thru all the usual procedures. At first I didn't think I had that much play in the throttle shaft but am now thinking it might need a bushing job. BUT when the starting fluid test was done I didn't get any run up in RPM. SO I was wondering before that is attempted could I have other issues ? I know - a million.
The plugs are telling me its too lean, she starts, idles and runs great, has good power but after a ride she has a slightly rough idle that can be smoothed with a light dose of choke ( 1/4 ). The idle screw is out 2.5 turns. White manifold, hot exhaust, but she runs at 180, timing and valve adjustment is good. What is your sched looking like for a rebush and a go over. I am in Central NY and its Jan ! Thanks Rick, Mark oh by the way the Gasket for the Carter fuel filter worked great.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 4, 2015 19:11:10 GMT -5
Last first. I am happy to hear the gasket was what you needed. Now then, your carb. "rough idle", "light dose of choke" (as in it must stay partially closed to idle correctly?), "idle screw (brass idle/mixture screw) out 2 1/2 turns"
It's actually running rich. Your settings could be masking the leak. Are ALL of the screws tight? Is it mounted to the manifold, with a diffuser gasket in between, tightly? Is it a new diffuser? Accelerator pump at 17/64" (+/-0)? Metering rod set correctly (2.718")? What is the idle RPM and what vacuum readings is it giving you? My schedule is good for a go-over and tuneup of the throttle. But let's see if we can fix this without involving the USPS just yet.
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Post by liljoe on Jan 5, 2015 8:59:13 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Scoutpilot. I backed out the idle/mix screw to make it as rich as possible to get rid of the puff puff on idle after a ride. Funny how well it idles when just started or even after it has been taken for a ride and shut down and started again warm. its like it is slightly starved after a ride. Yes new and tightly installed diif gasket.( guessing about 20ft lbs ) ??
Will have to get a vacuum gauge- that will tell me lots. Should have done that first and eliminated the thought of a vacuum leak. (giving me a lean condition)
The plugs are light gray as the tailpipe - no black soot at all.
Accelerator pump and metering rod will need to be checked.( will start reading up on that ) What's the best way to chk RPM - have a timing light but no RPM indicator. Thanks Scoutpilot. good news is - have all winter..
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 5, 2015 10:15:27 GMT -5
Vacuum = air. A vacuum leak will cause the need for more fuel to be introduced to accommodate the increased flow of air and maintain the proper air/fuel mix. Choke cuts off air flow. Read my posts about Tools. A Dwell/Tachometer is indispensable and should be as handy as a screw driver. For your vacuum gauge check out this link .
The copper rivets of the diffuser need to be crushed as flat as the gasket to make a good seal. Most folks are concerned that by tightening too much initially they may break the ear of the throttle or pull the stud out of the manifold. You have to be very, very strong and not know your own strength for that to happen.
I've posted a video that covers part of this and you can see other videos I've put up which can be helpful. Let me know what you find.
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Post by liljoe on Jan 9, 2015 7:26:47 GMT -5
Good AM to u Scoutpilot.
I am moving slow on this warm idle issue but moving none the less !
Vacuum readings 19.5 steady. Should I bother checking valve adj with this vacuum reading ?
I still need to check the acc pump and metering rod dimensions. I never realized the metering rod could effect the idle circuit.
Thought it was hi speed only. Since this is a minor noticeable issue at warm idle - maybe I don't notice it at driving speeds ( 35 - 40). It just seems so smooth while driving and going thru the gears. Carbs are like women!
Is there any way to adjust the metering rod with a home built gauge/ brass rod ? Want to do it today ! Walcks will take a few days to get here with gaskets and stuff.
Thanks again for your patience Scoutpilot, Mark
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 9, 2015 10:54:20 GMT -5
Good AM to u Scoutpilot. I am moving slow on this warm idle issue but moving none the less ! Vacuum readings 19.5 steady. Should I bother checking valve adj with this vacuum reading ? I still need to check the acc pump and metering rod dimensions. I never realized the metering rod could effect the idle circuit. Thought it was hi speed only. Since this is a minor noticeable issue at warm idle - maybe I don't notice it at driving speeds ( 35 - 40). It just seems so smooth while driving and going thru the gears. Carbs are like women! Is there any way to adjust the metering rod with a home built gauge/ brass rod ? Want to do it today ! Walcks will take a few days to get here with gaskets and stuff. Thanks again for your patience Scoutpilot, Mark |
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Post by liljoe on Jan 12, 2015 20:01:20 GMT -5
Hi Scoutpilot - Went at it again today. Vacuum up to 20.5 - found a small leak at the intake with the propane torch. Tightened the nuts a little and stripped the second from the front right out ( 1.5 "). It turns out whomever put that one in only grabbed 2 threads worth and I turned it right out. Of course I threw things and said disgusting words thinking that I will be spending hrs trying to get a broken bolt out only to see that the nut was all the way up on the threads and they didn't pay enough attention and screwed it in only grabbing 2 threads. I was pleasantly surprised to look in the hole and not see a broken bolt... A 3/8 x 16 tap cleaned the hole and I made a new stud out of grade 8 3/8 x 16 bolt 2.5 inch long. I cut 24 tpi on the non threaded end( cut it down to size 1.5) a put her back together - leak fixed. But still have my puff puff. Valves were all adjusted again. Metering rod was adjusted as well as pump throw - hard to read 17/64ths my eyes were watering.. Any way - all this messing around with the carb I noticed the shaft again - movement - more than I noticed before. Measured on the far out side facing the fender I got .0112 of movement. I heard that it should be measured along the inner wall of the body but still its over .005 -.009 by a good amount. I am not sure if it will get rid of my puffing but it is winter and .0112 is large so I think you should have a look and give me a full report as they say. Looked at the pilot reamer and bushing avenue but still want a "Carb Guy with great ref's" to look at it and fix it professionally.
Hell I am not even sure of the exact model of carb I have other than it is a WO. I noticed a good amount of play on the bushings on the metering rod and accel pump rotating assembly. I ran her today to see if all the BS mistakenly fixed something but still have the light puff puff. She ran nice and started great for it being so cold. Anyway when you get a chance let me know your routine to send it over to you. also is paypal ok ? Thanks, Mark |
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 13, 2015 6:05:36 GMT -5
I'm hip deep in three of them right now with four more coming in soon. If your not going anywhere for the rest of the winter, you can send it any time and it will have an established place in line. And yes, PayPal is fine, but we won't discuss that just yet. Let's find out whats wrong with it first.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 19, 2015 6:14:50 GMT -5
I'm bringing back an oldie but goody:
The PCV valve at the intake manifold and the tube and cover at the Valve cover must be clean. If it is clogged it will not be able to relieve the pressure in the crankcase and vent the volatiles to the intake. This excess pressure has no other route out other than the Oil Fill Tube and then to the Crossover Tube. And then, into the carb. Check for a conical screen inside the small housing at the valve cover. If there is one there, remove it and put it on the shelf. These screens were found to be more of a problem than the one they were designed to cure. Is there a lot of oil residue in the carb throat? The PCV valve can be disassembled and serviced. If however, upon reassembly, it rattles, then the spring inside is no good. You cannot purchase the spring, nor the internal valve so you would need an NOS or good used complete one. You could try stretching the spring out a little, but I don't recommend that because too tight would cause the same problem.
For a carb to function correctly;
It must be set up correctly.
It must be clean as a hounds' tooth internally with properly sized valves and jets.
No vacuum leaks.
Float at 3/8" (+/-0)as measured, inverted, without the gasket in place. Use the shank of a 3/8" drill bit as has been suggested.
Accelerator pump travel up and down 17/64" (+/-0)
Metering rod tip .046 - .048 (for sea-level operation, rod #547. For High altitude a one-step-leaner #548).
Metering rod setting 2.718" (+/-0)(special tool available from Carl Walck.)
Idle mixture nominally 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from the bottom
Idle RPM 600-700
You must also have;
A properly functioning Heat Riser valve.
Fresh, clean air delivered from a well functioning Air Filter.
Fresh, filtered fuel delivered to the WO at 2.5 - 3 psi. I recommend a filter at the carb inlet. (The old single-action mechanical fuel pump like the AC572 delivers at this level without a fuel pressure regulator. Electric pumps are problematic, to say the least.) A Solex can accept no more than 1 to 1 1/2 PSI and therefore requires a pressure regulator.
Fresh clean fuel from the tank to the pump. I recommend a filter between them.
A properly vented tank.
A properly timed and strong spark to all four plugs.
Correctly set Valves with good springs.
Did I miss anything? If any one item is not correct you will have performance problems.
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