Post by oilleaker1 on Dec 5, 2023 6:23:46 GMT -5
One of my toys I've had for years has had some previous owners that paid others to do work on it. It's a 1962 Jaguar E type. A difficult and rare car to work on. Last "tour" out I had a car panic stop in front of me and I almost ran into him due to poor brakes. I sidelined the car and decided no more until I fix the issues. You have to pull the IRS unit out of the car in order to work on it. It turned into a major difficult project. The limited slip differential has in board brake discs and 4 coil over spring shocks with out board aluminum hubs that carry wire wheel splined steel wheel mounts. Besides the discs being drenched with gear oil, contaminated disc brake pads, the bearings in the hubs for the wheels were loose. You could wobble the wheels. All service to remove the associated parts needs to be done with the assembly removed from the car.
I tore this unit down to the bare differential. I discovered that the previous "mechanic" never sealed the differential output axle splines that drive the two struts axles going out to the hubs. He also did not get the pre-load at the bearings right. Actually, the manual is wrong. They call for too much end float. This is discussed on Jag forums in horrible detail. All the pre-loads , camber to the wheels, Trunions, are set with shims. You have to organize and pay attention to what goes where. A huge mess of grease and dirt. The parking brake also has a set of calipers and pads that share the discs that the main calipers and pads use. All were gummed and greased up. To remove the disc brake calipers, you have to unbolt them from the differential. They too have mounting shims and bolts with lock tabs.
I ran into two problems I had to have a machine shop fix for me. One was the whole unit fell forward off the jack while lowering out of the car and bent the pinion drive flange, and the other was one of the two output differential drive axles had pulled threads which galled and tore the threads up. I have much respect for my friends at the local machine shop. Good guys.
It took about 2 1/2 hours to get the unit back up into the car and bolted in. It weighs about 150 pounds. Man handling is out. 4 rubber isolastic mounts hold the cage to the monocock body assembly. 5 bolts and 4-6 shims each. You also have two radius arms with rubber pressed in inserts that tie it forward to the bottom of the car along with a sway bar with two more bolts. the wheel hubs have to be raised and lowered until the rubber radius arm cupped ends line up with the associated floor mounting points. Then you have 4 drive shaft flange bolts and park brake cable and hydrallic brake line. The two calipers have a bleeder each up top that are a joy to get at. I used a vacuum brake bleeder tool to restore the brake fluid to each. Always a mess. Did I mention you have to pull the entire exhaust system off ?
It's back in and working.
Part two is removal of the oil pressure relief valve. I've had issues with oil pressure dropping and then coming back after overhauling the engine. Twice!!!! I put in a new brass valve and spring this 2nd time. The reason for this intermittent problem is stupid crazy. Both times I found a small section of cotter pin half that had been clipped off sitting in the seating area of the relief valve. It was moving around getting between the seat and valve off and on. I blew out and cleaned the galleries in the block, etc. so where it came from is a total mystery. I removed the entire assembly and cleaned and blew it all out during this second time. I also took some fine valve grinding compound and lapped the valve and seat lightly. It looked perfect. Changed oil and filter and started her up. Wallah the best oil pressure ever.
Road test today!!!! Oilly
I forgot to mention that all this was done "whilst offering up the spanner".
I tore this unit down to the bare differential. I discovered that the previous "mechanic" never sealed the differential output axle splines that drive the two struts axles going out to the hubs. He also did not get the pre-load at the bearings right. Actually, the manual is wrong. They call for too much end float. This is discussed on Jag forums in horrible detail. All the pre-loads , camber to the wheels, Trunions, are set with shims. You have to organize and pay attention to what goes where. A huge mess of grease and dirt. The parking brake also has a set of calipers and pads that share the discs that the main calipers and pads use. All were gummed and greased up. To remove the disc brake calipers, you have to unbolt them from the differential. They too have mounting shims and bolts with lock tabs.
I ran into two problems I had to have a machine shop fix for me. One was the whole unit fell forward off the jack while lowering out of the car and bent the pinion drive flange, and the other was one of the two output differential drive axles had pulled threads which galled and tore the threads up. I have much respect for my friends at the local machine shop. Good guys.
It took about 2 1/2 hours to get the unit back up into the car and bolted in. It weighs about 150 pounds. Man handling is out. 4 rubber isolastic mounts hold the cage to the monocock body assembly. 5 bolts and 4-6 shims each. You also have two radius arms with rubber pressed in inserts that tie it forward to the bottom of the car along with a sway bar with two more bolts. the wheel hubs have to be raised and lowered until the rubber radius arm cupped ends line up with the associated floor mounting points. Then you have 4 drive shaft flange bolts and park brake cable and hydrallic brake line. The two calipers have a bleeder each up top that are a joy to get at. I used a vacuum brake bleeder tool to restore the brake fluid to each. Always a mess. Did I mention you have to pull the entire exhaust system off ?
It's back in and working.
Part two is removal of the oil pressure relief valve. I've had issues with oil pressure dropping and then coming back after overhauling the engine. Twice!!!! I put in a new brass valve and spring this 2nd time. The reason for this intermittent problem is stupid crazy. Both times I found a small section of cotter pin half that had been clipped off sitting in the seating area of the relief valve. It was moving around getting between the seat and valve off and on. I blew out and cleaned the galleries in the block, etc. so where it came from is a total mystery. I removed the entire assembly and cleaned and blew it all out during this second time. I also took some fine valve grinding compound and lapped the valve and seat lightly. It looked perfect. Changed oil and filter and started her up. Wallah the best oil pressure ever.
Road test today!!!! Oilly
I forgot to mention that all this was done "whilst offering up the spanner".
