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Post by btinsc on Oct 13, 2022 8:10:53 GMT -5
Now that it’s getting cool and you guys are “hunkering up” by the wood heater sipping your HBR’s I have a couple of questions that some of you may have experience with. Jeep is a 1952 CJ3A, 6 volt, MZ-4162 starter.
1 - I had a starter issue and pulled it to check it out. During the inspection I looked at the brushes and they are worn, spring near the holder. How difficult is it to replace them? Looks real tight in there. I have read the procedure in the sm but looking for first hand experience. Are the brushes easy to find?
2 - The idle speed screw will not hold, it backs off the set point. Any ideas on how to tighten it up, replace it, a dab of blue thread locker, or what?
Thanks for any comments... Bill
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Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 13, 2022 11:10:45 GMT -5
I've done the brushes once or twice. I'll let the real pros instruct you there. The idle stop screw fix. Yes, you can use some blue thread locker or, if you are comfortable with it, you can bend one of the threaded flanges slightly to change the angle of the threads.
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Post by brucew on Oct 13, 2022 11:22:45 GMT -5
I just did this - I did only the positive brushes because the wires had broken off of the brushes. My ground brushes were fine.
Once you get the end plate off and the armature out, theres a fair amount of room to work. You will need a good soldering iron.
I don’t recall the model number of my starter but its for a CJ2-A. The internals may be very similar or the same. I got my brushes from either Ron Fitzpatrick or Carl Walck, I disremember now. A complete end plate is also offered but that would not include the positive brushes. Don’t forget to clean up the commutator and cut the micah.
BW
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Post by btinsc on Oct 14, 2022 7:37:37 GMT -5
I think I’ll try a dap of blue on the threads first.
Bruce I’ve a old parts starter I am going to practice on, I’ll unsolder the old brushes and then reinstall them. Back in the early sixties I remember the cussing when my uncle and grandad were reinstalling the brushes, seems there was a problem getting the spring loaded bushes on the commutator. What do you use to cut the micah, something like a small hawkbill knife?
Rick and Bruce thanks for your help. Bill
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Post by brucew on Oct 14, 2022 11:32:05 GMT -5
The positive brushes are soldered inside of a “loop” that seems to have been squeezed shut. When you get the solder joint loose you may have to open the loop a bit with pliers. When I put the new ones in I squeezed the loop shut on the wires and then soldered them. Don’t forget to use plenty of flux. Do not use acid core solder. The brushes can be positioned partway into the holder with the spring against the side of the brush to hold it. Then after the armature is in place, just push the brushes into place.
BW
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Post by btinsc on Oct 14, 2022 11:55:44 GMT -5
Got it Bruce. When doing electrical soldering I usually use a rosin core solder. Are you using the same but also extra flux? When soldering copper I use 95-5 with a flux, is this what you are referring to?
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Post by brucew on Oct 14, 2022 12:54:01 GMT -5
I’m not a master solderer, but I sometimes use a rosin core solder on small electrical stuff. On heavier stuff I use a paste flux (looks like grease) and some solid solder that was my grampa’s, on a steel spool. 😁 That’s what I used on the brushes.
To undercut the micah (mica?) I use a broken hacksaw blade.
BW
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Post by btinsc on Oct 14, 2022 19:52:14 GMT -5
That old solder was probably 50/50 and the flux you described would be the proper one. Bruce thanks for your input and help. All the old timers in my area that knew squat have died out. I appreciate the help and comments I receive from you guys.
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