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Post by schimms15 on Dec 30, 2022 5:40:46 GMT -5
Will do.
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oilleaker1
Full Professor
Full Professor
Has Jeep Disease
Posts: 2,022
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Post by oilleaker1 on Dec 30, 2022 7:30:43 GMT -5
If you have a test light with bulb in handle and alligator clip, follow the power from the key into the points. It will let you see things. With all new, I suspect Lee and Scout are correct, you have a short going to ground and nothing from the points coming out to the plugs. That test light when toughed to the lead out of the coil to the distributor will blink the light if the points are working. If you touch a long screwdriver to the center brush of the distributor cap and hold it near a engine metal point, it should jump a spark while someone turns the engine over. This indicates a bad rotor. Key switches can lose continuity or drop power due to too much appliances hooked to it, or it's dirty inside. intermittent power. That cheap test light is a thing of beauty and stock equipment in my tool bag. Oilly
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Post by schimms15 on Aug 17, 2023 17:02:53 GMT -5
Well finally got around to it today. The ground wire in the distributor was shorting to the housing. I pulled it mostly apart. Cleaned and lubed as much as I could ( didn’t pull out the weights) then put it back together. My vacc advance gave up the ghost so when I get home I’ll be cutting it apart on my lathe, making new seals, and a repair ring to reseal it.
For how much they want for these things new a rebuild is in my future.
The wires I’ll make all new when I get home aswell as my electrical stuff up here just isn’t up to this level ( more for in field repairs).
Finally these new condensers I noticed rub all over unless they are put in just right and the solid copper Robin crimped just right. I’m thinking of cutting the ribbon and making it a flexible wire like the originals.
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