Post by Scoutpilot on Dec 28, 2014 10:06:23 GMT -5
Aside from your screwdrivers, you will need some other tools. Small box and open-end wrenches. A pick. Tweezers or forceps. Very important is that you have the proper diagnostic equipment. I know, your system is six volts and you can't find a six-volt dwell/tachometer. They are out there. You just need to be patient and keep searching. The other basic diagnostic tool is a good vacuum gauge. Some special tools are required and are available on eBay occasionally.
Take note. New Metering Rods will often have an elongated eye. The gauge will be rendered useless. But no worries. I have posted a video covering this.
Let's start with small tools.
Immediately below it is a forked wedge (Snap-on MC-94, Carter's is the T109-43) for removing the aluminum rivet (or Welch) plugs. I have more to say about these plugs elsewhere. Suffice to say, there is one that should not be removed until you have verified that the kit you have or will purchase has a replacement in it. To the right of the pick is the hand drive 1/4" socket to remove/replace/adjust the basic setting of the steel Idle Stop Screw. To it's right is the special tool I use to remove the Main Nozzle. These are nearly impossible to find so you can use a #4 tap held in a small, handheld drill chuck as a substitute. The bottom center is the steel drift I use to place the Main Nozzle (with copper washer) in its passage. To it's right is the Accelerator Pump Gauge (T109-117S). I explain how to use it in a video posted in the WO thread. To it's right is the Carter tool (T109-22T, an alternative is T109-105) I use to bend the tang on the Float when adjusting it. The gauges for the float setting are fanned out at the lower-left corner. For the WO, you'll need the 3/8" T109-80. Or you can use a new, unused 3/8 drill bit shank. Immediately above it is a small pair of forceps I use for the hair clips.
You'll recognize the brass hammer. I use it in conjunction with the concave-ended brass drift (T109-123) to set the aluminum rivet plugs. Far top right is the magnetic bowl I use to hold all of the small parts I don't want to lose. Lower right is the machinist's steel rule that you can use as a substitute for the Accelerator Pump Gauge. In the photo below, from the left is the Screw-gripper starter I use to set the butterfly/plate screws, but only snugly. Use the 3/16" blade screwdriver to tighten them. More on removing them in the first place to come in the WO section. To the right are the Metering Rod Gauges. Center is the Carter T109-26 (2.718") gauge and on its right is the Carl Walck reproduction. The wrench below is a Snap-on 9/16" Carburetor tool. I use it for removal from and installation of the carburetor in the Jeep. If you're lucky, you may find one on eBay.
Take note. New Metering Rods will often have an elongated eye. The gauge will be rendered useless. But no worries. I have posted a video covering this.
Let's start with small tools.
Each of the Carter screwdriver tips (Carter #'s T109-59 (3/16"), -58(1/4") & -57 (5/16")) is sized for the different size screws you will encounter. Each is a 3/8" drive and I use the Carter T109-51 driver. Obviously, you can use any blade screwdriver just as long as the tip fits the screw slot correctly. The Carter rod (T109-53) on the far left is inserted into the handle/driver for torque multiplication. To the right of the two smaller screwdrivers is a special tool (T109-73) for removing and tightening the cap that covers the intake and outflow check valve passage. This cap also holds the Brass mesh screen which is the final line of defense against dirt and grit getting into the system. Immediately below that is the 5/16" wrench used for loosening/tightening the Metering Rod pin nut. Next to the upper right is a bent-tip pick for removing the hair clips that hold many items in their respective positions.
Immediately below it is a forked wedge (Snap-on MC-94, Carter's is the T109-43) for removing the aluminum rivet (or Welch) plugs. I have more to say about these plugs elsewhere. Suffice to say, there is one that should not be removed until you have verified that the kit you have or will purchase has a replacement in it. To the right of the pick is the hand drive 1/4" socket to remove/replace/adjust the basic setting of the steel Idle Stop Screw. To it's right is the special tool I use to remove the Main Nozzle. These are nearly impossible to find so you can use a #4 tap held in a small, handheld drill chuck as a substitute. The bottom center is the steel drift I use to place the Main Nozzle (with copper washer) in its passage. To it's right is the Accelerator Pump Gauge (T109-117S). I explain how to use it in a video posted in the WO thread. To it's right is the Carter tool (T109-22T, an alternative is T109-105) I use to bend the tang on the Float when adjusting it. The gauges for the float setting are fanned out at the lower-left corner. For the WO, you'll need the 3/8" T109-80. Or you can use a new, unused 3/8 drill bit shank. Immediately above it is a small pair of forceps I use for the hair clips.
You'll recognize the brass hammer. I use it in conjunction with the concave-ended brass drift (T109-123) to set the aluminum rivet plugs. Far top right is the magnetic bowl I use to hold all of the small parts I don't want to lose. Lower right is the machinist's steel rule that you can use as a substitute for the Accelerator Pump Gauge. In the photo below, from the left is the Screw-gripper starter I use to set the butterfly/plate screws, but only snugly. Use the 3/16" blade screwdriver to tighten them. More on removing them in the first place to come in the WO section. To the right are the Metering Rod Gauges. Center is the Carter T109-26 (2.718") gauge and on its right is the Carl Walck reproduction. The wrench below is a Snap-on 9/16" Carburetor tool. I use it for removal from and installation of the carburetor in the Jeep. If you're lucky, you may find one on eBay.
