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Post by tomj on Nov 1, 2021 18:09:59 GMT -5
Hey Scoutpilot & everyone else,
Here is my question. Due to an idle problem at fall colors I did a carb swap with one somebody had on hand to get me up and running. A carb I had at home was shipped out to me and I gave it to the donor in exchange (a beautiful rebuild you had done for me ScoutPilot), anyhoo the donor carb ran great for me but I really wanted to understand these units better so when I got back I rebuilt the original carb to get familiar. I put the rebuild on my jeep but now I have a stumble when I ease on the gas, if I hit the accelerator aggressively there is no lag but slowly the engine falters and almost stalls out. I suspected the accelerator pump and put a different one in and it seemed to be a little better but it’s still doing it. Should I suspect the accelerator pump or the metering rod? The engine ran fine with the donor carb but I noticed a leak at one of the set screws and wanted to fix that but also wanted to see if I had done an acceptable job on the rebuild. I tried to buy a good rebuild kit but wasn’t sure if I did, the accelerator pump in the kit seemed to have a lot of slop when inserted in its shaft. I watched videos and read and reread the Carter manual (which I had purchased) so I tried to go by the book but any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Tom
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 1, 2021 18:29:19 GMT -5
At what altitude above sea level do you normally operate? Ethanol or non-? Do you own a Vacuum/Fuel Pressure Gauge and a Dwell/Tachometer? Electronic or Points and Condenser ignition? Answer these questions to get us started. I'll be back in the morning.
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Post by tomj on Nov 2, 2021 8:23:36 GMT -5
My normal altitude is around 1200’ MSL, I run only non-ethanol fuel in my jeep, yes to all measurements (gauges - I use your technique for tuning), normal points and condenser distributor. And - like I said the jeep ran fine with the last carburetor, nothing else was changed. What is your take on the rebuild accelerator pumps? Is the leather sleeve supposed to flare out at the bottom to seal pretty snugly in the tube?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 2, 2021 11:14:23 GMT -5
Okay. Typically, the pump skirt will swell in the gasoline. When you last checked what was the vacuum reading at what Idle RPM?
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Post by tomj on Nov 2, 2021 12:58:59 GMT -5
Vacuum showing a hair over 19 inches at around 600 RPM.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 2, 2021 14:02:55 GMT -5
Adjust the Idle Mixture Screw to increase RPM to 750 then turn out the Idle Stop screw to 650 RPM and see if that doesn't help the vacuum reading.
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Post by tomj on Nov 4, 2021 13:24:49 GMT -5
I tried all that and it made no difference in the vacuum reading.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 4, 2021 13:44:20 GMT -5
When was the last time you adjusted the valves?
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Post by tomj on Nov 5, 2021 9:29:40 GMT -5
I rebuilt and installed this motor 500 miles ago so that would be the last adjustment. Checked compression recently, a little under 110 on number one and 115 on the other three.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 5, 2021 10:42:15 GMT -5
With those compression numbers in mind I would check the valve settings.
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Post by tomj on Nov 5, 2021 11:15:07 GMT -5
Okay. What I saw in the engine specification chart in the Willy’s manual indicated to me that 115 was what I should have. What are you suggesting I should look for? I have to confess I’m a little bit confused here.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 5, 2021 16:14:14 GMT -5
You are looking to make sure that the valves are set correctly. It takes only a sliver of maladjustment of an intake valve to lose vacuum.
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Post by tomj on Nov 6, 2021 9:37:27 GMT -5
Gotcha, I’ll dig into that and see what I have. Just curious, is there anything I could check to solve this accelerator problem? And I only ask because I had committed to a trail ride beginning Sunday and it would enable me to make that and then deal with these other issues when I get home. The jeep ran well before I swapped the carburetors, would it be logical to think something in the replacement carb is set wrong? The carb I took off has some issues but I got the impression that you were pretty backed up, how are things in the shop?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 6, 2021 10:22:54 GMT -5
You could try raising the metering rod a smidgeon. 1. Warm engine running at idle. 2. Remove the two screws holding the choke housing. 3. Lift the choke housing up and slightly out the way to expose the metering rod/accelerator pump mechanism. 4. With a 5/16" open-end wrench, loosen the nut holding the metering rod pin to the arm just enough that you can lift the pin very slightly. 1/64"-1/32". 5. Tighten the nut. 6. Place the choke housing. 7. Open the throttle slowly to determine if that has fixed the issue. 8. You may have to do it one more time.
HTH!
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Post by tomj on Nov 12, 2021 8:48:47 GMT -5
Rick,
In disassembling a backup carburetor I found that the port where the accelerator pump jet seats has threads that are buggered up. As best I can figure it’s a 5/16th 22 gauge thread?? But in looking around I cannot find either a tap or a bolt available that I can use to chase those threads. Any observations on this? Thanks again from way up in Ohio. Tom
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