Many years ago, running without a fuel filter was not considered to be problematic. Over time this has proven to be bad advice. I strongly recommend a filter between the gas tank and the pump and a filter between the pump and the carburetor. In a non-filtered system, the fuel flows directly from the tank to the pump. The pump has a Brass mesh screen to catch the bigger particles from the tank, but that fuel has to pass through the pump's intake valve before it is strained. This can lead to premature wear and failure of the valve and diaphragm. After the pump, there is only a small Brass mesh screen in the WO and nothing in the YF or YS. Valves and jets can and will become blocked and your carbs performance will suffer. You could do worse than choosing a proper filter set up. If you don't care about period-correctness, any auto parts store will have the plastic filters you replace annually. Get a clear one so you can see what's in the fuel. If you are period correct conscious then I recommend the top-of-the-line Carter Lifetime Ceramic Filter. It comes in various models as seen below. In-line ceramic filters, as seen at the bottom come in popular sizes for your fuel line, but are not always available. I recommend them for the position between the tank and pump as they can be easily placed in the frame rail.
The glass bowl filter is serviced annually by disassembling and back flushing the ceramic element, and if necessary, replacing the gasket and spring.
Last Edit: Apr 5, 2015 12:52:54 GMT -5 by Scoutpilot
There is an accessory for the Carter Lifetime Ceramic Filter few people remember or even know about;
This small device is a brass encapsulated magnet that is installed in the filter cover. Fuel must flow past it and it collects most of the minute metal (rust) particles that make it to the last line of defense from the tank.
Last Edit: Apr 5, 2015 12:58:47 GMT -5 by Scoutpilot
Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 17, 2015 18:07:13 GMT -5
I'm glad you asked that question. Remove the element and let it soak overnight in carb cleaner. Inspect the gasket and spring. If good, reassemble and tighten the bail.
The next day, using spray carb cleaner, back flush it from the inside, keeping the nozzle tube close to the surface.
Then spray slightly up from horizontal along the outside to flush the surface.
When finished, use clean, dry compressed air to blow it off.
NOTE: if the element is stuck to the gasket, and the gasket is stuck to the top, let the whole thing soak overnight, then hit it with the spray gently prying the gasket out of the cover, then separate the element from the gasket.
Last Edit: Apr 5, 2015 13:01:58 GMT -5 by Scoutpilot
Old fashioned service never goes out of style.
brucew: A camel nut muffin?! I'm glad I missed out on that one!
Oct 22, 2020 21:37:29 GMT -5
Scoutpilot: Coffee's up. Stay if you can.
Oct 23, 2020 5:34:59 GMT -5
oilleaker1: No Camel nuts for me either.
Oct 23, 2020 5:37:19 GMT -5
leemn: How about “Camel Toe” muffins then ?
Oct 23, 2020 9:13:13 GMT -5
binthere: Merry Christmas, the deck is white and I neeeed coffee!!
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Scoutpilot: Good night all.
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grumpy: Coffee is good, I like it strong and black
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oilleaker1: 21 and cold forecast. Winter is early -----------AGAIN
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grumpy: It was a balmy 41 degrees when I crawled out this morning. 5 below forecast for tomorrow night. I was hoping you would keep it in south Dakota Oily
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Scoutpilot: Mr. Cline... Please be so kind as to take out the trash? I didn't need to see this at bedtime.
Oct 24, 2020 19:13:55 GMT -5