|
|
Post by Josh700 on Mar 16, 2019 23:38:20 GMT -5
ScoutPilot, I'm hoping you can point me in in the right direction with my YF problem because I am officially stumped. I have a YF on a Kaiser L-161 6cyl and it has always started and idled perfectly and consistently. Today I decided to try a few different metering jets to chase down a carbon buildup issue on the plugs, for which I suspected too much fuel at cruising speed. (This may or may not have been the correct route to go)
After a few test runs I found that smaller jets were not going to work. It would start and idle great but it would stumble and hesitate during acceleration. So I returned to the original one. Now it will hesitate and stall out after about 30 seconds at idle. I had not adjusted anything else but the jets and it is back to how it was before. Suspecting some gunk in the system I disassembled, cleaned and blew out all orifices and jets (now 3 times) and installed new gaskets. No mystery parts left over and I'm fairly comfortable when tearing into this carb, so I don't think there was a reassembly issue.
Here's where I left it tonight when i gave up...
-full fuel tank with confirmed fuel in the glass filter just before the carb
-fuel in the carb bowl, it is not starving here
-a great stream of fuel down into the carb when I hit the throttle
-steady 20 psig vacuum at idle
-no found vacuum leaks when searching with starting fluid
-dist. points cleaned and gap confirmed at .020
-firing order checked and double checked
-spark plugs cleaned and gapped
It will fire right up but I need to feather the throttle until it clears itself. I cannot create a sweet spot with the choke. It will then idle nicely on it's own for 30 seconds, then stumble once or twice and then die.
Based on this information, do you suspect this to be a fuel issue? I was thinking it was a clog in the idle circuit but I don't think there's anything left to clean. I would sure appreciate any insight you could give me on this.
|
|
|
|
Post by Scoutpilot on Mar 17, 2019 4:30:18 GMT -5
Barring the possibility that you somehow changed the metering rod height or changed the float setting.
Date of last full tuneup?
What was replaced?
Is the barrel of the carb wet or dry when operating?
Is there a puddle of fuel in the intake manifold?
Voltage?
Coil - internal or external resistor?
Distributor - Vacuum advance or mechanical? Points, and condenser or electronic?
Distributor cap - Clean, dry, no cracks, brass or aluminum contacts?
Wires - Resistor or copper core?
Plugs - ?
Date of last full rebuild of the carb, to include the throttle?
|
|
|
|
Post by Josh700 on Mar 17, 2019 11:06:59 GMT -5
Thank you for the quick response! As I've been cruising your fourm this morning something hit me. Before I close up the carb with the top lid, I always pre-fill the bowl for an easy start. Let's assume I overfill it, not so much it's overflowing but well beyond the normal float level. Is this causing a flooding or vacuum issue? It's basically overriding any kind or float adjustments and making them null and void. I've always done this with positive results, but that doesn't mean it wont bite me in the backside eventually.
Date of last full tuneup? June '18, I wouldn't call it a FULL tuneup.
What was replaced? Via a purchased kit, I changed the gaskets, float, float needle, advance pump including leather, check ball & weight.
Is the barrel of the carb wet or dry when operating? Wet
Is there a puddle of fuel in the intake manifold? Yes
Voltage? 12v system
Coil - internal or external resistor? Brand new AC Delco, Internal resistor
Distributor - Vacuum advance or mechanical? Points, and condenser or electronic? Vacuum advance, which I disconnected to eliminate that as a vacuum leak. No change. Points w/ condenser, condenser has been replaced last night and points cleaned and gapped to .020
Distributor cap - Clean, dry, no cracks, brass or aluminum contacts? Clean, dry, no cracks, brass contacts in good condition.
Wires - Resistor or copper core? Not copper, so I assume resistor. "7mm suppression core, R883" is what they say.
Plugs - Autolite 295, 6 of 'em
Date of last full rebuild of the carb, to include the throttle? Never more than what was mentioned above.
On a side note, I wanted to thank you for your in depth timing guide (written and video). This is my go-to for timing and tuning the engine and it works excellent. I was so happy when I found it last summer, and that also led me to your Oldjeeps forum.
|
|
|
|
Post by Scoutpilot on Mar 17, 2019 11:57:15 GMT -5
You're welcome, Josh.
The carb is flooding. Double check your float setting. What is the composition of the needle in the needle and seat? Solid metal? Or Viton tipped? Do you still have the float setting guide from the kit? Study it carefully and set the float accordingly. Lacking a gauge, you can use the shank of an undamaged drill bit of the correct size.
As to the plug wires. Copper-core wires carry a higher amperage load than does the suppression type. Suppression wires are to keep engine produced electrical static from fuzzing out the AM side of the radio bands. NAPA sells a DIY copper-core wire kit. Be sure and specify that your doing a six-cylinder motor so you can purchase enough wire.
Hope this helps.
|
|
|
|
Post by Josh700 on Mar 17, 2019 12:13:06 GMT -5
I'm sure I have the originally paperwork and the gauge somewhere. I stopped getting rid of stuff like that for situations like this
The needle is viton tipped. I'll adjust this morning and let you know how that ends up. As for the plug wires, I've been wanting to change mine out anyways so I'll go with your Napa suggestion.
Thanks a lot, I'll be in touch with results.
|
|
|
|
Post by josh700 on Mar 17, 2019 16:35:15 GMT -5
It was way out of adjustment, closer to 3/8" than the correct 15/32". I put it back together and don't have much of a change still. Maybe it's pointless but I took the carb off and left it off to attempt and dry out the inside of the intake, as it was still plenty wet inside.
|
|
|
|
Post by Scoutpilot on Mar 17, 2019 18:27:42 GMT -5
No. Leaving it off overnight is a good thing. It allows the fuel puddle to evaporate faster. Dry is GOOD! You may have a metering rod issue as well. there is a fix for that too.
|
|
|
|
Post by josh700 on Mar 18, 2019 15:39:32 GMT -5
Alright, so I put it back together today and gave it a shot. It fired right up and ran ok if I kept it around 2000rpm or so and some choke. After a few minutes I let it idle in its own, and it was not running smooth, but it was not stall out. So that’s a little progress. I’m going to get new points and condenser tonight and double check my connections. If there’s still trouble, I’ll pull my valve cover and check for a stick valve.
I agree, I think I need a metering rod along with some new gaskets anyways. But I’ll start looking for other electrical and mechanical issues. I think it’s getting the fuel it needs, but it’s not burning it. No matter what I do with the throttle or carb, it won’t clear itself.
|
|
|
|
Post by Scoutpilot on Mar 18, 2019 18:39:30 GMT -5
Worst case scenario? Bushings and a new throttle shaft.
|
|
|
|
Post by josh700 on Mar 18, 2019 22:10:29 GMT -5
Points and/or condenser were the problem. Maybe the condenser was a junk new one, but either way, I swapped it with a spare set that I had in the road bag and she fired right up. I guess "new" doesn't always mean it will work the days. I've got a bit of tuning to do after all of that messing around and adjusting other things but I was able to enjoy about 30 minutes of sunny windshield time this evening.
I'll be adding a metering rod, assorted jets and fresh gaskets to the shopping list though. Still running a bit rich off of idle in my opinion.
|
|
|
|
Post by Scoutpilot on Mar 19, 2019 4:40:39 GMT -5
Congratulations. I'm glad you found the issue. Please keep me posted on your progress.
|
|
|
|
Post by josh700 on Mar 24, 2019 18:15:06 GMT -5
Update:
it starts, idles, and drives great for the first 5-10 minutes. After it gets ro temp it does not enjoy idling, such as when coming to a stop sign I need to keep the rpms up. Once driving again it goes as normal.
I would explain the low idle problem as a surge. It idles at 600 for about 5 seconds and then drops down to, say, 300 and then catches itself back up to 600 again. After 2 or 3 times of this it will die, after which it will start back up pretty easily.
|
|
|
|
Post by Scoutpilot on Mar 24, 2019 18:34:16 GMT -5
What is the float setting?
|
|
|
|
Post by josh700 on Mar 25, 2019 9:18:19 GMT -5
dang, I can't recall the number off my head but I was thinking about the float too. It was one of the only settings that i changed completely after your first suggestions. It was previously running about 3/8" too high so I brought it down to spec (per the rebuild kit instructions that I got a while back), I think it is 15/32" with the Viton tip and I used a new, unused drill bit as your videos suggested.
I'm glad you mentioned it as well, it confirms a suspicion and I will tear into it and do a bit more research on a factory number.
I'll be able to do that today and I should be able to do a test drive. Hopefully a long one!
|
|
|
|
Post by josh700 on Mar 25, 2019 13:49:48 GMT -5
Float was adjusted wrong, but that didn’t fix it. It was originally adjusted to 5/16” and I changed to what the rebuild kit said at 15/32. But when I pulled the numbers on the carb (and not the motor application) it says it’s a CJ-5 and to adjust to 5/16”. So I went back to that and took a drive. It still surging anytime I come to idle after being on the throttle. When I died and I restart, it will fire right up and idle for as long as I can stand to watch it.
Looking down the chamber, when it drops down in RPM I can see the accelerator pump send a squirt down the carb and that saves it for a few seconds and the cycle repeats itself.
I’m trying to get a video cut down to a size that I can upload.
|
|
