Heading out to adjust the valves on the '46 - chain driven engine. I've never done this before so it may take me a few hours.... I might also change the orientation of my oil pump gear if my new gasket kit arrives as scheduled. This will allow me to get my distributor back to normal.
I don't know, I find the "Magic 9" method confusing. How is 5 - 9, 4? Or 3 - 9, 6? Yes, I know, 9 - 5 = 4, and 9 - 3 = 6, but that's not what he said. Even then, that's a lot of math for nothing. But then, Scott said he was turning the engine clockwise from the front, when he actually turned it counter-clockwise, which is backwards. I start with the #1 piston at TDC. It's easy to tell whether #1 or #4 is on the compression stroke, the one on compression will have lash at both valves and the other will have none at either (if everything is even close). You can also watch #4's tappets, when the exhaust closes and the intake opens, #1 is in position. Adjust both valves on #1 Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction (as if you're tightening the pulley nut) 1/2 turn. Adjust both valves on #3 Turn the crankshaft 1/2 turn Adjust both valves on #4 Turn the crankshaft 1/2 turn Adjust both valves on #2 You're done. It takes almost as long to type it as it does to do it.
Thanks for the guidance and I think I might give this method a try today as I enjoy learning about these jeeps. I also think my valve adjusting time is not over since I got some tapping noise soon after making my adjustments. It appears that the 6th tappet from the front of the jeep has an adjusting screw that it too loose and it's going out adjustment. I tried adjusting it 2 additional times and it floats back to .019". I was wondering if it's possible to use a spring compression tool while #6 is at it's lowest position and try and replace the tappet adjustment screw? I'm open to other suggestions too.
On the magic 9 method, I sat down with a piece of paper and tried to simplify this and I did catch the CW vs CCW mistake too in the video.
I did turn CCW from the front using a 1 3/8" socket and some 1/2" extensions out the front bumper. Let me know if that was correct.
Here is how I mapped out the video on paper.
If you label the valves 1-8 from the front of the engine, there is an association between the following valves:
1 <-> 8 2 <-> 7 3 <-> 6 4 <-> 5
So if 1 is high in its travel, adjust 8 and conversely, if 8 is high in its travel, adjust 1. repeat for the total of 8 different combinations based on the associations above.
Based on this approach, I have to ask the experts here - first, does this sound true, and second, does it really matter what direction you turn the crank in this example? My observation was that if you are trying to get one of the valves in its highest state, you can tweak the crank back and forth to find that sweet spot.
If this method is true, the magic 9 might be simpler to explain as the association of valves 1-8 where the multiples of these valves add up to the number 9.
For magic 9, you turn the engine clockwise stading at the front bumper, looking at the fan. Basically, if you prove each cylinder is a TDC on compression stroke with both lifters positioned on the heel of the cam, you can adjust both intake and exhaust. With magic 9 , whatever lifter is fully up and compressing the spring, 9 - that valve, counting from the front of the engine, = the one to adjust.
If the valve stem has worn a depression in the lifter, that pocket will throw off your feeler gauge readings. You can examine a unworn one and count the number of flats you turn it from tight to get you in the ballpark.Then adjust the worn one the same.
To install a new adjuster into the top of the lifter, you will need to pull the head and remove that valve and spring. A royal pain.
Thanks for the advice. I will go back and recheck, but the lifters do not seem to be worn on the top, I just have one adjuster that seems to be too loose in the threads. It spins around pretty easily while the others all seem to have the ability to keep their adjustment. Example: if I put my 1/2" wrench on the bottom of #6 tappet, I can spin the top of the adjuster with my fingers.
Well, I went out and tried the Bruce's method and I liked that much more. I also decided to try to see if I could unscrew an tappet adjuster and it turns out, I was able to get the spring compression tool inside and lifted the valve by hand and was able to get enough clearance to remove the adjuster. It appears the adjuster has some damage on the threads - pictures below. The top of the adjuster is worn a bit but flat. I should have mentioned that I only made one minor adjustment to my previous work using the magic 9 method, I ended up adjusting #8 valve about 1/8th of a turn.