Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 14, 2015 10:17:47 GMT -5
As folks began driving the CJ's it became apparent that some form of fuel filtration was required. As plastics had not been thought of as materials for filters, engineers came up with several options. The first, and only factory optional fuel filter was the Skinner Purifier. There is a separate write up for this original.Skinner Purifier
Carter developed its line of filters, with these options
At the same time, AC was working on its line of products.
All three brands served the need with either a cleanable, reusable ceramic element or a Moraine element. All were doomed, because when it was discovered that folks were actually doing the maintenance on the elements, replacements were not being purchased, so these models were eliminated in favor of cheaper, replaceable paper elements.
Last Edit: Jan 2, 2016 7:27:49 GMT -5 by Scoutpilot
One reason a carburetor or a fuel pump will not perform to standard is a poor line connection. Many of us have been faced with the question of how best to connect the tank to the pump to the filter and to the carb. As well, how best to hook up the vacuum connections. The first photo depicts a very common fuel/vacuum connection.
I do not recommend this type of connection. It’s one failing is that when you tighten the clamp you run the risk of the rubber bunching around the tube, leaving minute linear gaps which will, in time, become air leaks. With a fuel line these gaps will not normally allow gas to leak out but once the pump starts pushing fuel they will allow air to infiltrate and diminish the pumps’ performance. Sometimes air bubbles will appear in the bowl of the pump indicating an air leak. Often the culprit is a loose bowl bail or a cracked bowl gasket. But if tightening the bail does not eliminate the bubbles, the problem is found at this connection. For fuel line I recommend barbed or mechanical connections. If you use rubber fuel line, you can employ the following;
The barbed brass fitting is the best for this purpose. Attach the rubber tube as far as you can on the fitting and carefully tighten the clamp. In the case of the vacuum wiper connection outside of the engine bay, it is best to at least single flare the tip of the steel tube so that it imitates the barbed fitting. You will be assured of a good fit if you clamp it as close to the flare as you can. This is as good as it gets for a vacuum connection. But when it comes to fuel line, I strongly recommend this;
The double-flared steel tube to flared fitting is the most leak-proof of the connections depicted. It is, in my opinion, the best permanent fuel connection that can be made up on the motor, between the pump and the carb, or the filter. The 1/8” NPT thread is self-sealing due to the taper of the threaded end. I do not recommend a thread sealer unless the connection is slightly loose. This condition is normally found in the inlet port of the carb. Sealer is temporary until you can acquire a brass male/female coupler to install in the carb.