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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 10:54:05 GMT -5
Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 18, 2016 10:54:05 GMT -5
Only two reasons for wet plugs. Flooding from the carb or a weak ignition system to include weak plugs.
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 13:31:31 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 18, 2016 13:31:31 GMT -5
OK...SHE IS RUNNING! ...but not without concerns.
At the time of the video, the engine temp was 150F and the jeep had been idling for quite some time. I could not see any color in the exhaust. The RPMs were at 450 for 8 cylinders, so that equates to approx 900 for the jeep.
It doesn't pick up as well on the video, but when I tug on the throttle, there is a very brief hesitation or a pause. Is that normal carburetor operation? Or is this what Scout's "stumble test" is checking?
I replaced all four spark plugs, ignition wires, and coil. All the small parts in the dizzy were replaced along with the two bushings and advance springs. I believe the NOS advance springs were the earlier 4075 model distributor. They had either one less coil or one more coil then the two springs I removed from my 4008 model. Without putting the dizzy on a machine, I can't say for sure what that has done to my advance. Lastly, the weights were cleaned and reused.
This part is a bit peculiar, but may be associated with the springs...at least that is what I am telling myself. When I placed the distributor back in the engine (with number one at 5* before IGN, it looked as if the rotor had already passed through number one and was heading to number 3. I had read where it was possible to put the came in 180 off, so I pulled and disassembled to confirm its position. It was correct so back in the engine it went. After some monkeying around, the engine started. It sounded more like the low, lazy rumble of the Dodge weapons carrier...and I had forgot to put the spark plug in number one back in! I felt that was a good sign. Here is the really goofy part: to make this video, I had moved all of the ignition wires in the cap one slot counter clockwise (#1 to #3, ect). As the distributor is currently sitting, #1 wire is near the 3 o'clock position. It was previously 5 o'clockish. Maybe this has to do with the tighter springs versus my uber sloppy springs? Or has my timing chain jumped? The flywheel markings are where they should be, though.
After the video, I shut the jeep off and restarted it three times. It immediately came back on each time, so the timing must be adequate I'm thinking.
...still, I have those two concerns...the hesitation upon acceleration and having to move the wires.
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 15:31:58 GMT -5
Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 18, 2016 15:31:58 GMT -5
You have done well my Padawan! 19 on the vacuum gauge isn’t bad. But I think with careful adjustment, you can bring it in at 20-21 and possibly lower the idle RPM. You know the procedure to which I refer. <(-_-)>
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Deleted
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 17:16:29 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2016 17:16:29 GMT -5
You have done well my Padawan! 19 on the vacuum gauge isn’t bad. But I think with careful adjustment, you can bring it in at 20-21 and possibly lower the idle RPM. You know the procedure to which I refer. <(-_-)> Dropping the idle speed alone my increase the vaccume! That much. Spring tension on the advance is a big and overlooked deal!... Lee Also you cannot install the dist 180 off as the drive tang on the bottom is offset and will only engage the oil pump shaft one way.
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 17:37:11 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 18, 2016 17:37:11 GMT -5
You have done well my Padawan! 19 on the vacuum gauge isn’t bad. But I think with careful adjustment, you can bring it in at 20-21 and possibly lower the idle RPM. You know the procedure to which I refer. <(-_-)> Also you cannot install the dist 180 off as the drive tang on the bottom is offset and will only engage the oil pump shaft one way. I didn't mean the whole distributor was 180 out...you are right about the tang. I was referring to the cam that sits above the springs. That sucker can go on 180* off. There is a PITA mini spring that holds that bastage on. I needed my reading glasses for that. So nobody is concerned about that pause upon acceleration or will we wait and see what happens after I fine tune it per Scout's instructions?
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 17:55:35 GMT -5
Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 18, 2016 17:55:35 GMT -5
Patience you must have. Yes. <(-_-)>
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oilleaker1
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 17:58:57 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 18, 2016 17:58:57 GMT -5
Sounds like you had weak springs and your wiring was off 90 degrees. That's why I said you should verify # 1 at TDC on compression stroke, set the engine at 5 degrees before, and see which wire the rotor pointed at. You were off on timing and it wouldn't run. The dead spot or hesitation now just needs you to verify that the metering rod at idle is down in the main jet, and it picks up up at the moment your pedal is depressed for more gas. Also look and see if your accelerator pump is squirting fuel. Both will give you a dead spot. Other than that , is your oiling point for the upper distributor bearing facing up hill at 2 o clock? Oilly
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 18:11:43 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 18, 2016 18:11:43 GMT -5
Slow down a minute, Oilly Cowboy. The wires weren't off 90. They were in the exact same positions from when the trouble began. Before I removed the distributor, the oiler was at 1:30 and number 1 was at 5:30.
Thats how I began today, too, when I reinstalled the distributor. However, after rebuilding it, the points had already opened and closed on #1. When I removed it, I had it at 5* before TDC and the points were just opening.
To get it to run today, I had to rotate all wires one spot counterclockwise and then turn the distributor clockwise. The oiler now sits at 2:30 (barely uphill) and #1 is at 3:00. Pretty significant difference than how it's been all year. I'm not sure how I feel about this.
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oilleaker1
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 18:25:23 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 18, 2016 18:25:23 GMT -5
Ok, big fellow, do you think the advance was rotated some from when you first did the positioning? If not, then we meet at sundown at the OK Jeep Corral. Just trying to figure out what changed. Oilly
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gmcjr
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 18:38:35 GMT -5
Post by gmcjr on Oct 18, 2016 18:38:35 GMT -5
If not, then we meet at sundown at the OK Jeep Corral.Oilly
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Sparky
Oct 18, 2016 19:16:42 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 18, 2016 19:16:42 GMT -5
Ok, big fellow, do you think the advance was rotated some from when you first did the positioning? If not, then we meet at sundown at the OK Jeep Corral. Just trying to figure out what changed. Oilly Man, I don't know. It's weird. With the original positioning, I would have had to spin the distributor to make the oiler go from 130 to 1130, but the side of the engine stopped it from going there. That why I repositioned the wires. I was kind of at an impasse. If there was another way to do it, this dodo couldnt figure it out. Part of me wants to jump in there and cause chaos, but the other part is relieved to hear it running again.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2016 19:41:02 GMT -5
Verify timing with a light, if ok move on!.
Lee
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Post by rickg on Oct 18, 2016 19:44:19 GMT -5
The sound of a running L134 is good! Quit F-ing with it 'fore you piss it off agin!
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gmcjr
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Posts: 907
First Name: Gary
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Post by gmcjr on Oct 18, 2016 19:55:55 GMT -5
The sound of a running L134 is good! Quit F-ing with it 'fore you piss it off agin!
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oilleaker1
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Sparky
Oct 19, 2016 6:40:10 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 19, 2016 6:40:10 GMT -5
LOL, Lee finally weighed in. It's possible the advance assembly could have been assembled 180 off. That fun little Jesus clip in the center can go ping---------out of your pliers and land on a table full of open jars of "stuff". Ask me how I know all this. Moosey, if you have the oiler at 1:30, then you most likely are just fine. My GPW is wired off # 3 when it should have been # 1. They will run fine. I'd work on your dead spot next. if it pops right off and doesn't fight the starter while cranking when too far advanced, you are real close on timing.
At the Jeep OK Corral, I thought my 1919A4 with a belt of 100 rounds would be fair to bring to the fight. When I 'm finished with you, I'll walk over and shoot the distributor right off the side of the block. Payback time for being a little bastage huh?
Option two: Go ask Artificer on G 503. He would surely treat you like a pro huh?
As you know, the only way to get the rotor pointing at # 1 textbook style is to re-install the oilpump. Another pain. That's why my GPW is just fine.
I'm glad she is running. Sounded fine with a slight dead spot. I posted my "rouge" approach under "Oilly's Garage Hint".
Scout uses his gauges and tools. A perfectionist. When his tools don't work, he tears his engine down for a rebuild. He knows the drill. Oilly
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