gmcjr
KJRT
Posts: 907
First Name: Gary
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:04:59 GMT -5
Post by gmcjr on Oct 14, 2016 12:04:59 GMT -5
Is the plate that the condenser and mounts to and tight to the dist. body??
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:05:31 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 14, 2016 12:05:31 GMT -5
Have you tried a different rotor? I had a rotor go bad and it was taking the coil discharge to ground right through it. I could touch the carbon center on the bottom of the distributor cap with a long screwdriver, roll the engine over with the starter and key on. Would jump a nice spark out of the screwdriver to the head bolt or valve cover bolt. Nothing coming out of the cap. Oilly I haven't tried a new rotor this go around, Oilly. The current one was put in back in May and then hardly driven. what concerns me, though, is with the cap and rotor off, I get a puny spark and sometimes no spark. Also, the whole grounding out issue shown on the multimeter continuity test has me wondering if that is my issue(s). Maybe it's time for a distributor rebuild? I'd rather confirm that before yanking it out of there.
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:07:13 GMT -5
Post by rickg on Oct 14, 2016 12:07:13 GMT -5
Is the plate that the condenser and mounts to and tight to the dist. body?? Been there done that..
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oilleaker1
Full Professor
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Posts: 1,982
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:26:14 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 14, 2016 12:26:14 GMT -5
Ok, the points, when working correctly, control or fire the coil. They are the switch that fires the coil which then transfers through the rotor and out each individual wire that is connected to the cap where the spark from the rotor is transfered. Depending on the type of cap and rotor, one has a spring loaded brush, while the other is fixed and the rotor has the spring contact. The points and condensor need to be insulated on one side, grounded on the other. Make sure the condensor wire and points are not shorting to the case, and the other side which grounds through the base plate that the points mount to is. Some cars have a advance hooked to the plate which rotates the plate. It usually has a ground wire to it inside the dizzy. The part that moves is usually mounted on plastic buttons where it slides. Anyway a road test is to take a probe type test light and ground the clip and probe the - wire lead between the coil and the distributor. It should blink when the engine is turned over with the starter. The other + side you have already confirmed lights up when you turn the key on. Check where the plastic bushes are that the point springs rotate on. They are supposed to be insulated. maybe something is shorting you out Moosey! Lubricate yourself first--------------PBR or a Bud Light or something. Oilly
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:38:44 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 14, 2016 12:38:44 GMT -5
Is the plate that the condenser and mounts to and tight to the dist. body?? I missed this response. No, I haven't checked that. I'll give that a look in one moment. I'm going to have reread Oilly's response a time two to comprehend all the details. The distributor I'm dealing with is the original Autolite for the WW2 jeep, but it does not have the dust proof cover. I need to look up its model number...IGW, IAW...they all sound alike.
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oilleaker1
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Posts: 1,982
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Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 14, 2016 12:52:40 GMT -5
More: if your distributor advance unit up top or the distributor shaft itself are now worn to a point where it gives you eratic gaps of your points, it may only fire the coil on and off depending on if it is opening your contact points correctly. The test light will confirm this. It should blink steady every time the points open and close. So, maybe your distributor is the whole problem. This will make you "dizzy" LOL, Oilly
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:53:08 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 14, 2016 12:53:08 GMT -5
That base plate it tight. The condenser shows 0.0 continuitywhen points are closed. 0.30 when points are open...just like the rest of the distributor. That means something somewhere is grounding out, right?
And it still shows a puny little spark at points.
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:57:10 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 14, 2016 12:57:10 GMT -5
More: if your distributor advance unit up top or the distributor shaft itself are now worn to a point where it gives you eratic gaps of your points, it may only fire the coil on and off depending on if it is opening your contact points correctly. The test light will confirm this. It should blink steady every time the points open and close. So, maybe your distributor is the whole problem. This will make you "dizzy" LOL, Oilly Is that common for the shaft to where out where the points arm rubs? I wonder if it might be one of the bushings inside? I've got a repair kit and small parts here, but no replacement shaft.
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oilleaker1
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 12:58:32 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 14, 2016 12:58:32 GMT -5
Those meter readings are french to me. I've never liked digital test meters. I'm old and like needles that sweep accross a scale. I can see test lights when they light up. I can feel good spark. If it hurts, it's good. Hurts so good!
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oilleaker1
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Sparky
Oct 14, 2016 13:02:28 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 14, 2016 13:02:28 GMT -5
Yes, the cam that rotates on springs has a smaller steel to steel shaft with a groove in it for lube. No lube under the rotor where the felt round wick is = worn and rusty. There is no kit. New shaft and advance unit is the fix unless you are good at micro machining. So, do you have a probe type test light? Oilly
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Sparky
Oct 16, 2016 8:27:37 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 16, 2016 8:27:37 GMT -5
Oilly...I don't have a test light. I'd like to get one, but honestly, I'm not really sure what I need. I looked online once upon a time and there seemed like too many options, a lot of them high tech, so instead of making a stupid purchase I watched cat videos on youtube. Any recommendations? I think I might pull my distributor this afternoon and investigate it. I've got a NOS rebuild kit on the shelf. I've been reading up on the topic the last 48 hours and have come upon so really good threads. I might be prepared for this... This thread was probably one of the most informative and one of our own got the last word in: CJ distributor linkSeems like the super delicate part of this process is the advance timing with the springs. I know this is critical, but if I can't find access to a machine to test it, it sounds like it is somewhat doable in the garage, right? Lee, did yours turn out alright?
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Sparky
Oct 16, 2016 8:56:36 GMT -5
Post by Scoutpilot on Oct 16, 2016 8:56:36 GMT -5
Bo. How about adding the link to the library?
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oilleaker1
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Posts: 1,982
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Sparky
Oct 16, 2016 13:26:25 GMT -5
Post by oilleaker1 on Oct 16, 2016 13:26:25 GMT -5
Oilly...I don't have a test light. I'd like to get one, but honestly, I'm not really sure what I need. I looked online once upon a time and there seemed like too many options, a lot of them high tech, so instead of making a stupid purchase I watched cat videos on youtube. Any recommendations? I think I might pull my distributor this afternoon and investigate it. I've got a NOS rebuild kit on the shelf. I've been reading up on the topic the last 48 hours and have come upon so really good threads. I might be prepared for this... This thread was probably one of the most informative and one of our own got the last word in: CJ distributor linkSeems like the super delicate part of this process is the advance timing with the springs. I know this is critical, but if I can't find access to a machine to test it, it sounds like it is somewhat doable in the garage, right? Lee, did yours turn out alright? I sent you two examples of test lights Moosey! Jeep Roger also makes the tight steer. A real asset to us Jeep guys! Oilly
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Sparky
Oct 16, 2016 15:06:49 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2016 15:06:49 GMT -5
Mine works well, and I have never touched it since that post.
Lee
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Sparky
Oct 16, 2016 16:31:09 GMT -5
Post by Mashie Niblick on Oct 16, 2016 16:31:09 GMT -5
Oilly...I saw the email...I have one of those still in the box! So that's what I use it for! I wonder when I bought it?
I've got the distributor out and broken down. My two new bushings (one with oil hole drilled) are soaking in oil. I wish I had thought of this last night. This, the project is on temporary hold until tomorrow. I really didn't notice much of any slop, but I figure I might as well replace them since I'm in this deep. The one thing I did notice was that my springs were pretty weak and did not rebound the weights completely. I thought about widening the tabs, but figure that will be the NEXT fix in 60 years. I went ahead and used two NOS springs.
Scout, I will add that link and perhaps one other into the library when I'm finished. I will also mic the bushings and list their data, too.
Pull up up a stool, you've got time before this project is over. Rick...pick up some donuts, please.
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