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Post by willynilly on Nov 26, 2022 20:51:29 GMT -5
As soon as my carburetor comes back, I am ready to start this fresh engine rebuild. Should I (hopefully) start and run it a minute or two without the radiator hooked up (in case there is a disaster and I have to take it apart again), or just go for it and fill it with water and antifreeze?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 27, 2022 5:34:23 GMT -5
If this is a complete rebuild, then you need to have it fully set up with the builder's recommended break-in oil and coolant installed. Everything electrical is correctly connected, clean, and tightened. All grounding points need to be clean, shiny, and tight. Before installing the spark plugs, gapped at .030", you should manually verify the timing with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the rotor pointing in the general direction of 5 o'clock. Points should be set at .020". Remember, 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 counter-clockwise with the #1 plug at this position, is the timing order. Hopefully, the oil pump has been installed and indexed correctly. Once these parameters have been met, double-check all fuel connections for tightness because any loose fitting will suck air. Make sure the carb is properly tightened down with 30-35 pound-feet of torque or it will suck air at the gasket.
Connect your Dwell/Tachometer and your Vacuum gauge.
If you don't have a fuel pump with a priming lever, you'll have to prime manually by squirting a little gas down the throat of the carb. Just a little. Close the choke. Turn the ignition on, and hit the starter. No more than 10 seconds of cranking at a time, then TURN THE IGNITION OFF. You don't want to burn out the points. Repeat until the carb bowl fills and the motor runs on its own. Gradually open the choke and let it run at idle (650-700RPM) until the normal operating temperature is just about reached, about 140º. Then set the throttle to run at 1500RPM for about 15 minutes. This will allow the motor its initial break-in.
At the end of 15 minutes, turn the motor off and re-torque (70-75 pound-feet) the head nuts in the proper order as shown in the book.
Now then. Fire it back up and tune it for the best vacuum reading. Initially, this reading may be low. Don't worry. Drive it! You'll need to run at least 500 miles before changing the oil and checking the tune again.
The procedure outlined is for a "NO-problem" scenario. IF this doesn't go quite as planned, STOP immediately and ask us what to do next.
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Post by rickg on Nov 27, 2022 10:50:44 GMT -5
on a fresh rebuild you will want to pre-oil. i use a fluid pump designed for gallon bottles with the pickup tube reaching the oil in the pan, the outlet tube to a barbed fitting at the oil gage port. pump till you see oil flowing to the oil filter, button up the filter and pump some more. the goal is to fill all empty oil passages. not saying it's absolutely necessary as surely your oil pump was packed before install and theres assy lube still on all bearing surfaces. Attachments:
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Post by willynilly on Nov 27, 2022 18:45:15 GMT -5
Good start-up summary Scoutpilot. I think I have the bases covered. This is the pre-oiler I put together using a 2-gallon garden sprayer and a tire valve. 15 to 25 pounds of air pressure seems to work pretty well. I connected to the oil filter inlet hose and pumped oil until it started to come out the disconnected oil pressure gauge line, then reconnected the line and continued pumping while making sure the oil pressure gauge needle starts to move. I pumped in about 4 quarts while occasionally rotating the crankshaft by hand, then added another quart into the oil filter cannister.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 27, 2022 19:16:10 GMT -5
Remember. If any issues crop up, don't hesitate to holler at us. We're here for you.
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