I bought a second hand WO 636 that needed a rebuild specifically because I wanted to pull it apart and learn how these things work. This is a learning project, I don't "need" this carb for my rig, at least not yet anyway.
Do you sell carb rebuild kits? Or is there a specific kit that you would recommend from the common dealers that is better in terms of quality, completeness, correctness etc?
Trying to avoid buying a kit that I later find out is not complete, or has quality issues...
Specifically. "Seal Tested" is the best brand. Pete Debella sells them. One additional part not found in any kit is the float pin. Mike's Carburetor Parts sell them. I could put together a complete kit for you for my cost ($40), plus shipping.
Thanks Scout, I would appreciate that. At least then I know that I am getting the best, most complete available. Would your kit contain the float pin? Do you take Paypal? It is the only way I have of paying you. Unless you can debit credit cards....?
I'm not sure how to measure this properly. But when I grab the throttle shaft and try to move it up and down or forward and back it seems pretty good with not much apparent movement. The linkages, however, have a lot of slop. Is this normal in the linkages of an old carb? Is it a problem? Is there a way of tightening up these linkages?
There is a bit of rust inside the throttle body bore. Can this be cleaned up acceptably using normal chemical de-rusting methods or would this immediately make this a poor candidate for a rebuild. Should I post a photo?
First, observe the ends of the screws holding the throttle plate (butterfly). The threaded ends must be sheared off prior to screw removal of the screws may lock up and you will break the slotted end off. Not good. Remove the shaft. Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the shaft in three locations circumferentially at the points where the shaft would be in the bores. Maximum wear is down to .310". The bores are measured in the same manner with an inside micrometer. Maximum wear is out to .313". A difference between the two measurements of .005" or greater is a vacuum leak.
It's normal for linkage to get loose over time. This can be a huge problem if the operation of the carb is impaired. If brass is the hinge pin you might try a little heat and pressure. Otherwise, there are no good fixes. Unless there is severe pitting, a little rust can be cleaned up using conventional methods. I put them in the bead blaster.
I do sell restored throttle bodies. Cleaned, bushed and with a new shaft that I mill in the shop. Parkerized and ready to go. Just let me know when you are ready. I've not encountered the repops yet and have heard nothing about them other than only the 407 (WO539S) base is offered.
Hey Scout, OK it seems I need to open up my WO 636SA. I have ruled out all other electrical possibilities on my poor idle problem.
I'm ready to pull the trigger on the following: Rebuilt throttle body for WO 636SA. Shorter military return spring for throttle linkage Your very best and most complete carb rebuilt kit (for the second carb I am learning on) Do you sell additional carb gasket sets? I'd like to have a spare gasket set for the one I am taking apart to clean out... I'm scared some gaskets might tear upon disassembly I'd better get a carb to inlet manifold gasket too. Always good to have a spare.
Can you let me know the total with shipping to 29 Leonards Road, Hilton, South Africa, 3201. USPS is fine, and it can be uninsured. Stuff is slow arriving, but I've never had something that doesn't arrive. I will pay via Paypal if that's OK.
With proper screwdrivers on hand, your carb tool kit really needs the: T109-43 for rivet removal and a brass drift and a small brass hammer to install the new ones. The T109-117S Accelerator Pump Gauge to set the pump throw at 17/64" (0.674687cm), (+/- 1/64"). The shank of a new 3/8" (.9525cm) drill bit will help you gauge your float. The T109-126 Metering Rod gauge should be on hand as well. My contact info for questions/answers.