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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 9:04:05 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip on the exhaust. I did not get a chance to check the color of the exhaust last night. It's a bit early to start cranking on the jeep in the garage this morning - wife and daughter still sleeping, but I did some research last night and this is what I have setup this morning. I went out about 30 minutes ago and removed #1 spark plug - closest to the front of the jeep - and used my remote button starter to advance the engine until I felt compression in #1 cylinder - thumb was over the cylinder plug whole. The contact tip of the rotor was at 11 o'clock so I figure that's where #1 fires. This is where I could use some advice - I then rotated the distributor so that the points are open - checked also to make sure the gap is correct .020 - and temporarily locked down the distributor. (should the points be open or closed at this point?). I then put the cap back on and set the wires with #1 being at 11 o'clock. I then checked to make sure I had the rest of the wires in order clockwise from the start of 1 -> 3 -> 4 -> 2. I think I'm ready to test fire, but I need to wait about another hour.
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gmcjr
KJRT
Posts: 932
First Name: Gary
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Post by gmcjr on Jan 1, 2018 9:14:42 GMT -5
Good Luck! The plug fires just as the points open.
BTW, since you did a wet compression test, she's gonna smoke like hell until the oil for the test burns off.
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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 9:41:59 GMT -5
I thought the plugs fired when the points were open so thanks for confirming. I think I burned off all the oil from the wet test when I had the digital Dizzy installed but I suspect with all the test firing I've been doing, there might be some smoke from too much fuel in the cylinders.
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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 9:59:28 GMT -5
Okay, off to the garage - it's nearly 8am. I will let you know how the test firing goes....
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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 10:33:52 GMT -5
well I think I've run my battery down. I was able to get some good cranks out of it but I was hearing a whistling sound coming from the engine. Is that possible a bad condenser?
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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 11:14:44 GMT -5
Engine is now running with the analog Dizzy installed. No engine smoke at all now that it's warmed up. Did a quick tune to get it running at about 700 rpms. I need to let the battery charge up a bit then I will do a vacuum test.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2018 11:34:02 GMT -5
Engine is now running with the analog Dizzy installed. No engine smoke at all now that it's warmed up. Did a quick tune to get it running at about 700 rpms. I need to let the battery charge up a bit then I will do a vacuum test. Perfect, so it was 180 deg. Off ? |
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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 11:47:22 GMT -5
Yes, looks like it's 180 deg off. I guess the only way to fix this is to uninstall the oil pump and align the gear correctly?
Here is the next set of research I want to do. I have two 1946 CJ2A's. One is a column shift that Bruce W. helped me get running great - Thanks Bruce! The second is the one I'm working on now. The nice thing about this situation is that I have a good running jeep to compare too. I did some quick voltage checks on the good running CJ2A and I took a reading from the positive and negative leads of the coil. It's pretty steady at about 2.3 volts. On the other CJ2A the coil is fluctuating from 5v to 12 v. They are both 12V coils - the one that's reading 2.3 volts has an external resistor and the other has an internal resistor.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2018 11:58:09 GMT -5
On the positive side of the coil you would have battery voltage unless there is an external ballast resister, that would step it down to 6V. Are you getting these numbers from the - side ?
Lee
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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 12:38:01 GMT -5
Good Jeep - 10.3V on the positive side - external resistor
8.3 v on the output to the Dizzy
Other Jeep - 13.8 on the positive side
9.8 on the output to the Dizzy.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2018 14:44:59 GMT -5
I do not see anything alarming with those numbers other than the low 10.3 on the good Jeep, that should be 12V. The - side are 1 volt different probably due to the different ballast resistors. So where were you getting the 2.3 volts or was that a miss print/read ?.
Lee
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Post by dluber on Jan 1, 2018 15:11:56 GMT -5
Lee,
I think the 2.3 was based on me taking a ready across the coil instead of positive to ground on the vehicle. Your earlier question back to me prompted me to go back and take the reading the correct way. Thanks!
Dave
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rudycon
KJRT
I'm not dead.
Posts: 75
First Name: Stephen
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Post by rudycon on Jan 2, 2018 10:24:49 GMT -5
I have seen this before.
Solid core plug wires, non-resistor spark plugs, condenser missing on the generator... Fancy-pants meter doesn't work in all that RF (radio frequency) noise!
Pulled out Dad's old D'Arsonval movement meter and it works perfectly for tuneup/voltage regulator testing.
As far as compression goes. When I saw 90 dry accros the board my first thought was "denver altitude." I get 75 across the board dry at 9000'. Not to worry. Also keep the altitude correction numbers in mind when the boyz tell you your vacuum readings are all too low.
As far as advance for altitude goes, My father-in-law taught me to crank up the advance until it "starts funny" or "idles funny."
I bet you can crank in at least 4 degrees more than "book" down in Denver.
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Post by dluber on Jan 2, 2018 18:35:02 GMT -5
rudycon, thanks and I remember meeting you at this years Colorado Fall Colors Tour. I was the guy taking all the photos. Nice article in your studebaker cj2a in JP magazine. I still have some fine tuning to do but I think I'm close on getting as much as I can out of this engine in Colorado. My vacuums is about 16 which I think is pretty good for 5500 ft. I would imagine your vacuum is around 12-13lbs based on 9000 ft.
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