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Post by Scoutpilot on Jul 13, 2017 13:36:02 GMT -5
I’ve stayed away from the W-1 because it has no direct application to “Old Jeeps”. The YF has a mechanically actuated accelerator pump and suffers from the same problems as the WO at the higher altitudes without a correct metering rod. The YS has the vacuum actuated accelerator pump. I would be grateful if RealDeal would post his experience with a YF on an L134.
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Jul 13, 2017 14:18:16 GMT -5
I'm running a YF on my 134 Fhead in my '53 pickup. The accelerator pump works fine if the linkage that operates the pump diaphram is adjusted by the book. It has a tendency to get heated up on top the engine and hot re-starts take a while. I have some extra YF's if Rudycon wants one.
As mentioned, the YS is vacuum operated and sucks at altitude.
The old chevy 216 rochester I'm running is a wonderful carb on my '46 Chevy pickup. Might be too tall though. Oilly (this is the later 235 type Bruce mentioned)
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2017 21:02:47 GMT -5
I'd try the 1904, low profile and kiss simple.... linkage problems are a fun challenge  , after all, it's a Studabaker stuffed into a 2A, a length of 3/16" rod from the iron store and let the fun begin!  ....... on top top of that, if the glass floatbowl model is used it ups the cool factor at least 100 points!, and it eliminates the guesswork if there is a fuel delivery problem.... Lee |
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Jul 14, 2017 6:59:16 GMT -5
Just don't drop the cool factor on the cement! That would be the end of cool.
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rudycon
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Post by rudycon on Jul 14, 2017 16:03:25 GMT -5
All these options! Thanks guys you are the best!
Let's see...On the way home, I'll pick up some more 3/16ths rod per Lee and because that's what the last guy used to monkey-motion up the linkage. If I could get over to the passenger side with a cable linkage somehow, it wouldn't be as "cool" but it would be very flexible for trying different carbs.
Bruce's Rochester R1B annular bowl sounds fascinating. I'll look into it. Sounds like you can take it apart and use it to punch out donuts too.
I have seen a 2bbl to 1 bbl adapter that would let me run the little pinto progressive holley-webber. Not sure If I could close the hood.
The Carter NOS pump spring arrived yesterday. At a glance it LOOKS right. I'll start there, then try to lower the float another 64th while I am in there. It might make a 64th of a difference.
Thanks for all the experience with carbs, Oilleaker. I'm reading you on the vacuum operated system problems at 10,000 feet with lots of them. noted.
As far as displacement goes, It is about 174" at the moment. 3"+.040 overbore with 4" stroke. VE is probably about 75%. Max RPM is actually mighty high for 4" throw at 5,000 RPM. So I need to flow about 188CFM. I'm being pretty generous on the VE of a log type manifold into a flathead. I bet a 150CFM carb would work fine too. What's that? an autolite 1100 with a 1.1" venturi? I have had trouble driving nose up in a full size jeep-in-the-steep with the autolite 2100.
I have SO MUCH to do to increase my chances of having a successful trip with you in less than a week! I'll do my best to get the tow rig jeep and the willys whipped into shape. I got a set of conventional plug wires with rubber boots. That Green ridge looks "wet." and I can hear my bootless solid core wires snap and arc whenever I put water on the OUTSIDE of the hood. Ah crap, I need click on spark plug ends too. I'm sure I lost most of 'em by now.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2017 16:57:33 GMT -5
How bout a rockshaft on the firewall ?...... BTW Oilleaker, the Holley 1904 glass bowl outweighs the rest of the carb, built like a hi-line insulator, very tough  ... Lee |
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rudycon
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Post by rudycon on Jul 15, 2017 20:12:33 GMT -5
I spent most of the day with the jk's hood up catching up on deferred maintenance (like exhaust manifold replacement.) but i also worked on the bbr-1 i had the float set way low. I put it back closer to "right." I refilled and drilled my jet to a #57. The new accelerator pump spring was only about 1/8" longer than the one I had in there. I put it in and made some washers to take up the extra space so now there is a squirt with smaller throttle inputs. i moved the pump to the "above 3000'" short stroke hole. There is no "above 8000'" hole  Seems better on the flats anyway. Haven't really driven it yet. i also explored the 1904 carb. It fits on my intake if I take my homemade heat shield off. It seems to have the right vacuum hookup and the linkage is close to workin' out! The throttle arm I have on the 1904 kinda needs to pull down and my current setup pulls from the top to the driver's side. I think i can weld something to the existing arm and use my existing linkage. I might give it a shot! I have a lot of maintenance to do before Bruce's trip before I can play with a different carb. progress! |
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 on Jul 16, 2017 7:00:05 GMT -5
Sounds like you better go with the old set up for Bruce's run. We'll have more fun on the trail eh? Looking forward to seeing you and Studewillys. Oilly
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Post by rickg on Jul 16, 2017 9:28:56 GMT -5
Sounds like you better go with the old set up for Bruce's run. We'll have more fun on the trail eh? Looking forward to seeing you and Studewillys. Oilly  x2!!
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rudycon
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Post by rudycon on Jul 31, 2017 11:54:10 GMT -5
Results:
#55 main jet last year was too rich and loaded up running above 10,000'.
#57 main jet was too lean on the northern co run.
I redrilled it to #56. Slightly lean at high vacuum, Runs pretty good everywhere else. I think the lean at High vacuum might be worn throttle shaft. It can't help.
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, after all, it's a Studabaker stuffed into a 2A, a length of 3/16" rod from the iron store and let the fun begin! 
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