Post by towhook on Apr 23, 2020 14:08:31 GMT -5
The canister oil filter when full and sitting, will slowly drain down to the small hole in the side of the stand pipe. So, when you crank, it takes a bit to fill it back to the top , then begin the back pressure until the entire oiling system is full and showing pressure on the gauge. If you remove the hose going into the canister, at the canister, then spin it with no plugs in, you should see oil coming out the end of the hose pretty good.
copper washer, on the sparing loaded one. the bottom 1/2 inch bolt is the one leaking
I took the oil filter out, so I could watch it flow with out taken of the hose ( well cranking with the key ) natta. even pulled the hose for the gauge and gave it a quick spin.. natta. bottom bolt of the pump is leaking pretty good. even when I hand pump oil in to the rear galley it leaks. my guess is that if oil comes out, air goes in so I re sealed the bolt, and the bottom of the pump. even swapped the over load spring. i'll let it dry over nite and give it ago fri am.....
mean well out back, I have a lot of gear oil on the floor. so I re did ( thread sealant ) the bottom trans. t-case bolts, and the t-case cover bolts ( used all new lock washers ). and plumbers taped the t-case drain plug. then I realized that the right gear oil is gl-1, i'm sure I had some thing other then gl-1 in there. so I gotta sneak off to napa and get a gallon of the right oil, a hand pump, and some clear tubing. then i'll be in the good for the trans and t-case. I read to many bad things if I woulda had the wrong oil in there
i'm glad all the willys shows are pushed back, I just mite have half a chance yet to make one, and not winch it on the trailer
thats' from 2011