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Post by Scoutpilot on Nov 24, 2019 5:44:00 GMT -5
Did we establish the octane rating of your gasoline? Higher than 67 octane requires some advance in timing for a complete, efficient burn.
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Post by jeepsaffer on Nov 24, 2019 10:24:32 GMT -5
I'm running 95 Octane unleaded gasoline. All of our gas is ethanol free.
I advanced the timing so that IGN is towards the bottom of the window, not central. Is this sufficient advance?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2019 10:32:59 GMT -5
X2 on a base gasket leak, I know Scout says tighten the base nuts to 35 ft lbs and it’s good, sometimes it has not been the case for me! 😁 I would remove the carb and crush the grommets with a washer & nut.... The story Oily refers to, we installed one of my carbs and it idled much like you describe, I used a longer open end wrench to give the nuts a bit extra and it smoothed right out, the guy ended up buying the carb from me as he said the Jeep had never ran that well and had spent 3 years pulling his hair out with multiple issues. A hired mechanic had basically ruined his carb trying to fix what ended up being a broken valve spring! 😮
Lee😮
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Post by jeepsaffer on Nov 24, 2019 10:33:02 GMT -5
Oilly, I have already added an oil resistant gasket, hand cut, above and below the supplied gasket. Should I have more than one each side? I did snug the bolts down some more this afternoon.... no apparent difference.
I think I'm done for the year. The rear heat riser bushing blew out on me (again), so now I can't work near the carb without getting a face full of exhaust fumes. I'll need to take everything off again to fix this, including manifolds. That will destroy my manifold to block gasket, which is my last one. I will order some more. Figure no less than 6 weeks for them to arrive. That puts me in January. Frustrating.
I suppose it's possible that the low speed jet is no good. But, it was in a kit supplied by Scout, and he says they are the same kits he uses in his rebuilds, so I would be surprised if it was no good.
Oilly, do you and Lee fancy a trip out here? I'll buy the beers!
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Post by jeepsaffer on Nov 24, 2019 10:38:06 GMT -5
X2 on a base gasket leak, I know Scout says tighten the base nuts to 35 ft lbs and it’s good, sometimes it has not been the case for me! 😁 I would remove the carb and crush the grommets with a washer & nut.... The story Oily refers to, we installed one of my carbs and it idled much like you describe, I used a longer open end wrench to give the nuts a bit extra and it smoothed right out, the guy ended up buying the carb from me as he said the Jeep had never ran that well and had spent 3 years pulling his hair out with multiple issues. A hired mechanic had basically ruined his carb trying to fix what ended up being a broken valve spring! 😮 Lee😮 Thanks Lee, I think it's worth a try, at least. How do you know when you've crushed the grommets enough? Is there a visual indication, or use a torque setting? I hope I don't take 3 years to sort my problems out....
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2019 11:02:19 GMT -5
X2 on a base gasket leak, I know Scout says tighten the base nuts to 35 ft lbs and it’s good, sometimes it has not been the case for me! 😁 I would remove the carb and crush the grommets with a washer & nut.... The story Oily refers to, we installed one of my carbs and it idled much like you describe, I used a longer open end wrench to give the nuts a bit extra and it smoothed right out, the guy ended up buying the carb from me as he said the Jeep had never ran that well and had spent 3 years pulling his hair out with multiple issues. A hired mechanic had basically ruined his carb trying to fix what ended up being a broken valve spring! 😮 Lee😮 Thanks Lee, I think it's worth a try, at least. How do you know when you've crushed the grommets enough? Is there a visual indication, or use a torque setting? I hope I don't take 3 years to sort my problems out.... LoL, the magical question 😂 if 35 ft lbs is correct, try 40 perhaps, any more may damage something?. Establishing correct torque with the carb mounted is nearly impossible without the correct tooling, and few have that!, I guess if the grommets are over squeezed a. Bit it will enhance the gaskets ability to seal, correct ?...
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oilleaker1
Full Professor
Full Professor
Has Jeep Disease
Posts: 2,022
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Post by oilleaker1 on Nov 24, 2019 13:17:32 GMT -5
No, those gaskets should have fixed the leak, but while apart check the height of those rivets. I would make sure the PCV valve is open and working, and facing the correct direction. Then re-adjust your valves. If any are tight, they throw off your vacuum also. Either use a timing light at the window---(hard to do) or rule of thumb on the distributor with a tachometer. Sure sucks you have to tear it apart and wait 6 weeks. It, by then, will be colder than a well drillers behind here.
On your carburator adjustments, you should be able to back off the throttle stop on the linkage and slowly bring the idle down until the engine dies. If you can't do that, and only have the lowest idle speed around 1000 RPM's, then you may have a carburator problem. I would think not since Scout did your throttle base assembly. He and I have trained each other------LOL.
When it is idling crappy, spray some carb clean into it and see if it picks up and runs better. That would indicate a slow speed circuit problem.
Did you run a compression test? I can't remember if you did. Do not use a 3/4 inch reach tester!!!!!!! 1/2 inch like the plugs only. Your valves will hit the longer one. Oilly
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