51 willys truck, put a brand new full brake system in it from the master to the line to each cylinder. Then it sat for 3 years, they worked great when first in now the pedal needs to be pumped, found one cylinder locked up but it freed up once I pushed in the pistons. checked all the adjusters they seem pretty good. I had to change out the hydraulic brake light switch at the end of the master so I put in a new set of copper washers and a new hydraulic switch. Then I bled the entire system 3 times (1st time all the air came out 2 more to check as the pedal stayed soft. I see no visible leaks anywhere, when pumped the pedal becomes hard and I can lock up the brakes. From rest without touching the brakes if I push the pedal all the way in it gets hard near the floor and the brake lights come on however the first 3 inches of travel it does not trigger the lights. Any theories? When I bled the system I put in all new DOT3 and flushed all the old stuff out.
When I was young mechanic (before we started calling ourselves "technicians") one of my old-timer mentors said, "It's this easy - soft, spongy pedal, there's air in the system, bleed it out. Low, hard pedal, they need adjusting. Set 'em up."
Thanks. One more it’s been about 5 years since I’ve vinegared a block. Mine got hot the other day just idling in the garage so I think I need to do it again. Water pump is newer and AL radiator. How long should I run the solution in the engine? I plan on leaving the radiator hooked up and filling it with the 50/50 then getting the engine hot. Will this hurt the water pump or anything else at all?
The vinegar should clean the AL but not eat through it. To etch AL for looking at with a microscope you have to use hydrofluric acid. Fluorine is one of the few elements aggressive enough to effect AL. For instance AL pots are common and can be used with vinegar my main worry is the rubber. Any idea on how long to keep the solution at temperature?
Ended up getting some of the thermocouple stuff while buying antifreeze. Claims to do the same as vinegar however it claims fine for all engines and as most modern are a combo of brass aluminum and cast iron I feel this is a good choice. Just an expensive one.
Schimmster, even if it's a F head engine, you still need a 1/16 hole to by pass water at the thermostat, or it will air lock and then when opening will blow out a half gallon of coolant. I went through this with mine.
Bruce is dead on, on the brakes. I'll add that the master cylinder push rod at the petal needs to return all the way back against the washer and circlip in order to expose the bleed hole for re-charge in the master. Hoses can collapse when they become soft from oil exposure and screw up the return to the master while not under pressure.
To clean my coolant systems, I pour a whole bottle of CLR rust remover in mine, go for a half hour run, then immediately flush the system while running the engine with a garden hose. Then 50/50 with new antifreeze. I have opened up some old holes in the radiator doing this. I put in some bars leak which closed them for the most part. I've been told by radiator shops that they can't fix a radiator that's had stop leak put in. Not sure if that is true however. The mineral or white inside is always gone!!!!!!! Chunks of hard debris lodged in the tubes up top require hard back flushing or rodding. For your heater, I always route the heater hoses in on top and out on the bottom. My Dodge pickup was clogged with gummy stuff. Once I flushed it with a hose, I attached the heater hoses this way. Water comes out of the block and back to the waterpump. Not the other way.
The brake light switch is a pressure switch. It won't make a connection until your hydrallic pressure reaches the point where the disk inside makes contact with the leads. They take a hard pedal to make the connection. That's why light pressure doesn't light up your lights.
Last Edit: Jul 4, 2018 7:43:47 GMT -5 by oilleaker1
Got the stuff in I plan on cycling her up to temp for a few days the. Draining and flushing with the hose and finishing it off with new coolant. I do have the hole in the T stat however my top radiator line is above the radiator so I wonder if it is causing problems. I know coolant is returning because if I leave the cap off and let the engine run I can see the coolant cleaner frothing in the top and level rising.