Name you poison!, LOL........ Myself, a large kitchen glass with ice/Diet Coke (that's better for you )/Studabaker old fashioned Canadian (I think of Sir Binthere every time I pull the cork). I'm not much for wine or beer, in fact I drink very little, my last jug was consumed in Colorado last August!, perhaps a jug for the holidays is in order!
Forgive your enemy, but remember the bastards name. (Scottish proverb)
The Never-Ending Story Continues......... The side bearings and inner seals arrived from RFJP (Timken bearings, Made In USA) so I pulled the old bearings off and installed the new ones with the same shims. Then I set about figuring out how to install those seals. Using a tool I made many years ago to remove SBC cam bearings, I was able to reach in thru the RH axle tube and drive the LH seal in place. To do the other one is going to take a looong bar to reach in thru the LH axle tube. Hafta come up with something else. A piece of all-thread with a nut and washer on each end did the trick. Reached in thru the RH tube and pulled the seal in place. I put the diff case in place and run a quick pattern check. Backlash was not too bad, a little bit much for new gears, right at the max, but not bad for used ones. But the pattern check showed that the pinion was way too far from the ring gear. What th'?! Then it occurred to me - I took .020" of shims off of the pinion to get some preload. If the bearings were worn evenly, there was .010 worn off of the rollers, the cone, and the cup of each one, so the pinion gear was now .010" further away from the ring gear. I decided that if I was going to pull the pinion gear out again, and drive out the inner cup to add shims, I was not going to fool with those used bearings any more. That decision would have been made for me anyway, because the outer bearing fell apart as I drove the pinion out one more time. I cleaned the old bearings up and took them to the local bearing store, where I got one made in Japan and one made in Spain to replace the old ones, one Timken and one Bower. I expressed my disappointment, I was hoping to get Made In USA. The counterman told me that those were what he had on hand and Timken's could be special-ordered at a higher price. The wait was more a problem for me than the price, and this outfit has been in business a long time and is well known for its quality merchandise, and he assured me that these bearings are as good as the Timken's, so I took them home. To Be Continued...........
Post by oilleaker1 on Dec 21, 2017 19:44:15 GMT -5
My mind is seeing everything you are describing. I'm not fond of fighting ring and pinions. I used a set on long 1/2 inch socket extensions for the long reach to the axle inner seal. Tapped it in carefully with a correct size socket. Not fun. Oilly
The Never-Ending Story Continues..... I put the new inner pinion bearing cup in the housing with the same shims that were in there all along, and I put the two .010" preload shims that I had removed, back in. Put the pinion in with the new bearings, and guess what - it's way too tight. I'll need to take it out and add shims to what it had before. In all of my experience with rear-ends and fronts, new bearings with the same shims almost always return everything to where it was originally, or at least close. Not any more, I guess. One or both of those new import bearings must be thicker than the old made in USA ones. Well. I didn't want to go through all of that fun of trial-and-error setting of the preload again, only to have to change the position shims and have to start over on the preload shims. Again. I'm starting to think I like GM's position shims behind the pinion inner bearing, and their crush sleeve. Changing position shims does not change the preload in them. I'm going to leave the pinion tight for now, so it will provide the preload needed to get a good pattern check. I installed the diff case and checked the backlash. .007", right in thee middle. I expected it to be looser, with high-mileage used gears. Run a pattern check and got a patch clear out on the heel of the ring gear teeth. This tells me I need more backlash. The side bearings each had a .020 and a .010, and the ring gear side had a .003 to boot, so I pulled the bearings, switched the .003 to the other side, and put the case in again. This time I had .012" backlash, and a decent pattern - not great, but hey, this is the front - not used all the time, and not at high speeds. Besides, it's VERY difficult to get a good pattern on used gears. I've always figured that the best pattern on used gears matches the wear pattern, not the book. Pull the case out one more time, so I can set the pinion preload again. I removed the pinion, added a .005, not enough - still too tight. Pulled it out again, removed the .005 and put in a .010, now it's too loose. One more time - took out the .003 that's been in and out of there so many times - HA! Just right. Take off the yoke one more time, put the slinger in, and found out that my hub/spindle nut socket is a very good fit for a seal driver. Put the case in, checked the backlash and pattern, nothing has changed! Where's Murphy? Is he sick? I'm a little worried about him.. To be Continued.........