After Uncle Lynden's ride back to Ouray on Lee's trailer (Thanks again, Lee) somebody (I think Muley) gave the RF wheel a shake and said it was loose. We looked and determined that it was play in the king-pin bearings. I had thought that they were in pretty good shape, so thought that the play might be a result of something damaged in the crash. When I got the damage to the frame and bumper repaired, I pulled the RH end of the front axle apart to determine whether it was due to the crash or normal wear. It turned out to be normal wear, or actually, wear beyond what should be normal. I cleaned everything up, painted the knuckle, replaced the upper and lower bearings, installed new knuckle seals, cleaned and re-packed the Rzeppa joint, and cleaned and re-packed the wheel bearings. The brake shoes were in acceptable shape, probably half-thickness or better, and pulling back the wheel cylinder boots showed no sign of fluid leakage. Since the brakes adjusted up easily enough before the Ouray trip, I decided not to fix what ain't broke yet and let the brakes ride. Now I've got to do the other side.......... To Be Continued
I will say, the "Million Dollar Road" (Ouray to Silverton) was much easier (on the mind) to travel in a Jeep!, The 1000' drop offs and switchbacks combined with traffic was an adventure!, the guys driving the semi trucks on that road are very brave ...... Good to hear "Uncle Linden" is getting back in shape!, I'm also surprised you did not have a Shimmy, due to the bad king pins.
Forgive your enemy, but remember the bastards name. (Scottish proverb)
Good work, Bruce! I have to work from home today. I should have an extra couple of hours without my commute time. Hope to work on installing the passenger side heater. More holes! I hate drilling holes because I really hate fixing holes! I have to get all the firewall holes fixed before icegrinder will let me pass tech inspection for Ice Racing this winter! (It's a goal.) I think Ice grinder would like to see more flatties and less subarus on the ice. I'll try to rent soft snow tires. I know the super traxions are not that great on ice. I can get stuck in 2High on the graded dirt road hill 1/8th mile from my house.
1947 CJ2a with a studebaker Champion 6, PTO winch, Rear locker front LSD.
The Never-Ending Story Continues... I got the right side all buttoned back up, adjusted the brake, and put the wheel on. I didn't bleed the brake, as I'll need to do that after I get the left side king-pin bearings replaced. Moved to the left side, removed the wheel, the Dualmatic lock-out hub, and the wheel bearing nuts/washers, and pulled the hub/drum off. I disconnected the "S" line, unbolted the backing plate, and put it on the workbench. Hmmm, what's this? The brake shoes are worn thinner than the ones on the other side, these would be on the verge of not passing, if we were still doing annual safety inspections in Colorado. Well crap. Oh, and what's this? the top half of both shoes look damp. I pulled back the boots on the wheel cylinder and fluid ran out. I guess I'll have to replace the cylinder and the shoes. That means I'll have to take the other side apart again and put brake shoes and a wheel cylinder on that side too. I went ahead and started cleaning the Rzeppa joint to get it ready for disassembly. This is when I realized that I put the inner race of the joint in backwards on the right side. There are some numbers stamped on one side of the race, and I didn't remember seeing them on the RH one until I had gotten it cleaned up, so I put it in with the numbers on the back side. The LH one has the numbers showing on the outside. These joints don't have the three screws that hold them on the axle shaft, they have a snap ring like a modern CV joint. So now I know that I have to take the RH joint apart again, but at least I've already determined that the right side has to come apart again any way. To Be Continued
Murphy must be at your shop helping. 50/50/90. With a 50% chance of finding the problem side first, you have a 90 % chance of doing it wrong. Mine is 100%. You have to earn it I guess. Practice makes perfect. You also know which wrenches to take with you which really saves on time when doing it over and over.
Bruce the safety checks your referring to is that for the state? I remember doing the brakes for my truck and looking through the photos realizing I put the long shoe in the wrong orientation, bust out the hub puller and flip them around then check all the brakes to be sure. Did something else I cant remember that made me take a bunch of stuff apart in the axle.
Bruce the safety checks your referring to is that for the state?
Yeah, when I started driving, they were mandatory every six months, then changed to yearly, and then stopped altogether in 1980. They thought (And I'm sure in some cases it was true) that mechanics were using the safety inspection to rip people off. I never sold anybody anything they didn't need, in safety related or ordinary repairs. There are some stories there, about the things some people did to try to get by, and the things we did to thwart them. Some folks, I enjoyed turning them down. B-dubya
The Never-Ending Story, continued..... I pulled the RF wheel off, followed by the lockout hub, wheel bearing nuts & washers, and pulled the hub off. Since I am now replacing the brake shoes and wheel cylinder, I removed the backing plate so I can clean it up and paint it, and the Rzeppa joint barely came out through the hole in the knuckle, but at least I don't have to take the knuckle off again. I decided that since I have both axles out, I might as well go ahead and clean all the old grease out of the axle tubes (they were both clear full!) and replace those little inner seals. That means the diff case has to come out, of course. My son, Jerry (We are finally spending some father-son time together. The fat-stupid-worthless step-dad had done his best to put a stop to that thirty years ago, and then life got in the way. Now we are 30 years behind, but we're enjoying our Saturdays together anyway.), pulled the front cover off, marked the side bearing caps, and took them off. I expected the case to come out fairly easy, but it almost fell out! Of course, the side bearings are well worn, the cups are well worn and pitted, and we found some pitting on some of the rollers. Oh well, no surprise. What surprised me is that the bearing cups cost almost as much as the bearings! Bend and spend, eh Oilly? I figured, I'd better have a look at the pinion bearings as well. They looked really good, but the pre-load was gone, you could spin the pinion and it would coast half a turn. I decided to remove some shim, tighten them up a bit, and let 'em run. With a bit of difficulty, Jerry and I got the inner seals out and with an all-thread with two nuts and a washer on one end, we cleaned all the grease out of the axle tubes. I would push the washer in from the outer end, pushing the grease ahead of it into the center section and Jerry would clean it off of the all-thread and put it in a peanut can. We got them fairly clean and filled the can. To Be Continued.......
I'm happy to hear about your son and you working together. If he has a similar personality to you, we all would enjoy his company. My son amazes me with his talent. He's ahead of me in patience and ability in most things . I was too busy when he was growing up to spend time with him since the phone ran me 24/7 and now, he is the same way. Work and the public's requirements SUCK!
I can visually see all you are doing in my mind, and your custom grease/rust scraper is already in my toolbox. I'm not fond of those inner axle seals. I'd miss seeing Uncle Linden on the trail. Glad he is returning to the action. Oilly
The Never-Ending Story Continues........... While I was waiting for the side bearings and the inner axle seals to come from RFJP, I decided to tighten up the preload on the pinion bearings. I took the pinion gear out and counted the pre-load shims. There was one .025" shim, two .010's, a .005 and a .003. I hadn't noticed any end play in the pinion, it just spun freely with no preload, so I figured I would leave the .003 out and it would snug up. You don't want used bearings as tight as you do new ones, you just want to have enough preload so you know there's no free play. The .003 wasn't enough, I could still spin the pinion and it would coast. So I took out the .005 and put the .003 back in. Still loose. Now I've already had enough of fooling around with 2 or 3 thousandths, so I took out a .010 and put the .005 back in. Still loose. Now I took the .005 out. Still loose! So I took out another .010 and put the .005 back in. Finally! It felt pretty snug but there was still very little preload, so, I took it apart again and took the .003 out. Now it's too damn tight! I've been worried that I would damage the threads on the pinion or the nut, or damage the front bearing, but I took it apart one more time and put the .003 back in. With the yoke nut tightened properly, there is enough preload to be sure that there is no end play in the bearings. I painted the yoke and installed the pinion seal, and then realized I had forgotten the slinger. Good thing I had another seal. To Be Continued............