Graduation is over and on to taking her boards next week so this roller coaster ride is almost over.
So I dug out my original radiator that I was told was 'bad' by a radiator shop many years ago. (Broke the drain off and asked them to put a new one on.) When I picked it up he said he had pressure tested it and it was bad. I was a bit skeptical because prior to this I had my jeep running. Fast forward 15 years and I slap it in my jeep because the current one is leaking from a seam. Going on a week with it in and so far (knock on wood) no problem at all. Go out every evening at start it and let it warm up to operating temp.
As for it running. Swapped out the throttle linkage. (Tighter fit.) Go back through the whole process. I can't get it to idle down below about 800 RPM before it gets really rough and wants to die. The good thing is I can at least start it when it is warmed up. My little propane torch is out of fuel so once I get that, I'll do another check for any leaks but at this time I'm either going to send this one in to Scoutpilot for a re-rebuild or grab on of the old ones I have and have him rebuild that one. So still fiddling with it a bit but with the weather changing and winter coming soon, would like to get a chance to drive it a bit before the weather gets too bad.
Post by Scoutpilot on Sept 3, 2016 19:21:25 GMT -5
Bo, I honestly don’t remember…
Hopps, 16-17 Hg at 800 RPM is not good. Way too rich. Roughness indicates plugs are fuel/carbon fouling. And I know…if you lean it out any it will die. I really would like to put a micrometer to the shaft and bores.
Before you apply the screwdriver to the plate screws, check the tips of the screws for peening or splitting. If they are, you’ll have to shear the tips off in order to avoid breaking the screw heads off after the first three twists. Once sheared, place the correctly sized driver in the slot, apply pressure and give the handle end a few quick, firm taps with a small hammer to break the corrosion in the threads.