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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 13, 2020 14:41:40 GMT -5
The outer, external pump arm is attached to two or three internal arms in parallel. The center internal arm is for the fuel diaphragm. You need to hold up that internal center arm. Now the bad news. The carb is not for a Willys. It is for a 1950-53 IHC International Truck 6 cyl.
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Post by towhook on Jan 15, 2020 10:37:07 GMT -5
ok, just great. just my luck. so do you think I can use the top part at all as in swap it over to mine ? or swap the choke plate ?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 15, 2020 16:26:34 GMT -5
The top is not for a 938SD. It's for a YF 4002 for the late model CJ5. The choke plate may fit. Shear the tips before you try to unscrew the screws. Then give each about four or five taps with the screwdriver in place to break any corrosion. Don't force them.
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Post by towhook on Jan 16, 2020 13:06:07 GMT -5
The top is not for a 938SD. It's for a YF 4002 for the late model CJ5. The choke plate may fit. Shear the tips before you try to unscrew the screws. Then give each about four or five taps with the screwdriver in place to break any corrosion. Don't force them. ok, thanks for all the info. the carb top ( not sure of the correct name ) matches up with my old 938sd . and I've had enough bad luck trying to undo any screws. so i'm back to the k.i.s.s. method lol. what do you make of the seat and needle ? I've never scene one like that. i'm hoping with the right needle and seat that it should work ? im thinking that i'll be mailing my carb top to you when I get the fuel pump done. I'm trying to make the best of this carb that I just got, and show the wife I did ok on it,.......
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 16, 2020 16:03:01 GMT -5
Understood. The all-metal, spring-loaded needle and seat is correct, especially if you have bumpy hills.
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Post by towhook on Jan 17, 2020 12:55:21 GMT -5
Understood. The all-metal, spring-loaded needle and seat is correct, especially if you have bumpy hills. great, thanks for the info. why does the seat have the 4 holes drilled in it ?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 17, 2020 15:47:19 GMT -5
Fuel flow.
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Post by towhook on Jan 24, 2020 11:45:13 GMT -5
is there a spec to tighten the screws on the carb ? note to self some screws are longer then others. lol
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 24, 2020 11:58:23 GMT -5
No specific torque is mentioned. Screw until tight.
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Post by towhook on Jan 27, 2020 10:46:01 GMT -5
No specific torque is mentioned. Screw until tight. ok great. i have a fish scale style torque wrench with the rod that points to a dial ( in inch pounds ) so i'll tray any get them all as close as I can. working on some steering now. then wire the engine, and hope it fires.
is there a way to prime the carb/ fill the bowl with fuel , scene the fuel pump runs of the cam ? or just crank the starter ?
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 27, 2020 10:51:11 GMT -5
To help avoid overuse of the starter, pour a couple of tablespoons of gas down the throat and close the choke. Start. You’ll probably have to repeat this a couple of times. Let the motor pump the gas by itself.
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Post by towhook on Jan 28, 2020 10:30:53 GMT -5
To help avoid overuse of the starter, pour a couple of tablespoons of gas down the throat and close the choke. Start. You’ll probably have to repeat this a couple of times. Let the motor pump the gas by itself. great, thanks again. I got the carb on the engine, and it dawned on me the book I 'm using ( jeep cj rebuilders manual ) didn't say a thing about any thing to seal the carb brown paper gaskets. seems odd to me ? any thoughts
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 28, 2020 12:23:18 GMT -5
No sealer is required. You are using a diffuser gasket?
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Post by towhook on Jan 29, 2020 10:35:19 GMT -5
No sealer is required. You are using a diffuser gasket? um, what's a diffuser gasket ? i'd say no, just the brown paper bag type gasket.
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Post by Scoutpilot on Jan 29, 2020 11:08:34 GMT -5
The gasket needs to be a bit thicker than brown paper. I’ll include one with the pump when I’m done with it.
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